‘Nobu’ Review: A Glowing and Straightforward Portrait of the Japanese Chef and His Empire

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‘Nobu’ Review: A Glowing and Straightforward Portrait of the Japanese Chef and His Empire

As a longtime fan of Nobu Matsuhisa’s culinary creations, I must say that Matt Tyrnauer’s documentary, “Nobu,” is a delightful feast for the eyes and soul. The film beautifully captures not just the global phenomenon that is Nobu, but also the man behind it all – a man who sees sushi-making as a performance and life as a stage.

A compelling subject can significantly enhance a documentary. This is evident in Matt Tyrnauer’s latest work, “Nobu“. This film offers an illuminating portrayal of Nobu Matsuhisa, the renowned Japanese chef who has built an empire of high-end sushi restaurants and hotels. His unique culinary creations blend his traditional Japanese roots with his early explorations in Peruvian cuisine, providing a delightful fusion for guests to enjoy. In “Nobu“, adapted from Matsuhisa’s autobiography of the same title, Tyrnauer (who is also present at Telluride this year with “Carville: Winning Is Everything, Stupid“) manages to connect the global fame of Matsuhisa’s name with his captivating personality.

The movie Nobu presents a candid and appreciative depiction of its central figure. This film is expected to resonate with fans of the chef, particularly this year as it coincides with the 30th anniversary of the first Nobu restaurant. However, it might not fully satisfy those with a keen interest in cooking. In contrast to David Gelb’s detailed documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Nobu delves into Matsuhisa as both a person and a brand, combining personal anecdotes with insights into the expansion of his culinary empire.

Tyrnaeur shapes Nobu around lengthy interviews with Matsuhisa, who generously details his early years growing up in Japan, his desire to become a sushi chef and the minor successes and major failures of his early ventures. These conversations, supplemented by interviews with Matsuhisa’s wife, Yoko, and his two daughters, Junko and Yoshiko, form a relatively candid biography and showcase Matsuhisa’s personality. His humor — characterized by Dad jokes and deadpan delivery — enlivens his storytelling and makes the early part of the doc feel more intimate. Stories about Matsuhisa’s formative years reveal a childhood marked by premature grief and a fascination with sushi-making. He likens the process of watching a chef delicately press pieces of fish onto rice and serve it to customers to seeing an actor on stage. To Matsuhisa, sushi is not just a cuisine but a performance. 

When discussing the origins of famous dishes like black cod miso or kitchen innovations, the documentary about Nobu truly shines. Stories from Matsuhisa’s early years in Peru, where he first encountered cilantro, and his restaurant journeys in Anchorage and later Los Angeles emphasize the creativity that fuels his multi-million dollar business. These instances add depth to the portrayal of an artist at work. The documentary becomes more compelling when we get to see the genius rather than just listening to it from various speakers. A memorable scene occurs towards the end, where Nobu, unusually, invites close friends to his home in Japan. Here, Matsuhisa’s thoughts on sushi-making as a performance art are demonstrated. While crafting saltwater eel onto a plate, he shares jokes and tales from his early days in the kitchen and his later years as an international celebrity with his guests.

Matsuhisa has truly shone brightly, as Tyrnauer devotes a large part of the documentary Nobu to the management of a worldwide business empire. With numerous restaurants globally and a few hotels under his belt, Nobu is now synonymous with luxury. Tyrnauer accompanies the chef on his travels – generally private, seldom commercial – to various Nobu establishments, particularly focusing on Nobu Los Cabos and Nobu London. Additionally, he attends board meetings between Matsuhisa and Nobu’s co-founders Robert De Niro and Meir Teper, where they discuss expansion plans and the brand’s future vision. The cinematography in this section is straightforward, aiming more to convey information effectively rather than impress with stylistic flourishes.

At each of Matsuhisa’s restaurants, the approach follows Nobu’s style: a blend of intimate elegance and exceptional cuisine, all while incorporating local produce to showcase regional flavors. Tyrnauer features discussions with food writers such as Ruth Reichl and chefs like Wolfgang Puck to highlight the impact of this chef on global gastronomy. Some elements are presented swiftly, which creates a contrast against the slower-paced biographical segment.

The documentary, brimming with content and an appealing veneer, generally avoids touchy subjects that could cause friction. When the corporate atmosphere is depicted as a family, concerns about labor policies, including some recent lawsuits, are not explored. Additionally, a disagreement between De Niro and Teper on the company’s growth strategy – expand swiftly for capital or grow slowly to maintain quality – is shown but not analyzed. As such, Nobu serves its purpose most effectively as an introduction, offering a sampling of all things related to Nobu – man and brand.

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2024-09-02 03:24