For the first time in March 2011, The Hollywood Reporter showcased a red carpet stylist on its cover, and assembled a list of other prominent stylists who were dressing the most renowned actors. At that time, many people were unaware about the role of fashion stylists, or even knew that celebrities required assistance in selecting their outfits for events. Moreover, these behind-the-scenes figures were not recognized by the public.
Moving ahead, beyond the 15-year span of The Hollywood Reporter’s (THR) annual Power Stylists Issues, these stylists have amassed immense power and impact throughout the global fashion scene, with some becoming familiar faces in households – a development that THR and its inaugural cover model, Rachel Zoe, could not have anticipated. Over this timespan, the magazine published 56 covers, executed 101 shoots, and compiled an impressive roster of 107 stars from entertainment, music, and sports, who graced the pages alongside their style mentors. This year, we featured Hollywood stylists who have collaborated with cover personalities such as Glen Powell, Zoe Saldana, Cynthia Erivo, Charli XCX, Troye Sivan, Sebastian Stan, and Anna Sawai.
In this conversation, THR chats with Rachel about the significant transformations the industry has undergone since its earliest days, the impact these shifts had on her professional journey, and who currently captivates her interests in the field.
ALT-THR: It’s hard to believe it’s been 15 years since then! Given that you were on the cover while expecting, it would make sense that your oldest child is around that age as well.
ME, AS A GAMER: Can you believe it? My boy Sky’s sweet 14th is just three weeks away! Not only was I expecting, but a week later, I became a mom. Every time I glance at that cover, it’s like I’m transported back to that moment, feeling the rush of events all over again. It was also the year I styled Anne Hathaway for the Oscars, you know, when she co-hosted with James Franco. Quite a year, indeed!
THR: Oh my, that Oscars.
ZOE: Yes, I recall. We must have done around 12 outfits, not forgetting the carpet. At that time, I was eight months pregnant and battling bronchitis. That [cover] shoot feels as fresh as yesterday to me. I’m sporting a piece from my archives – a Halston.
ALT: We’ve both experienced the grueling ordeal of Oscar preparations, it’s truly a hassle. I remember styling Regina Hall during her presentation in 2022, infamously known as ‘The Slap Year’. The rapid-fire backstage changes were nothing short of miraculous! It’s incredible that you managed to pull it off while pregnant. Kudos to you for persevering, and here we are 15 years later, still thriving. The landscape of red carpet styling has significantly evolved over the past decade and a half. In your opinion, what do you consider the most notable changes, both beneficial and detrimental?
Almost everything has been transformed. On the upside, there’s less emphasis on ‘the best versus the worst.’ There’s still a hint of it, but gone are the harsh criticism, the negativity, and the offensive views from people who struggle with their wardrobe choices. And I must say, I’m glad that part is behind us.
While I may differ, I’ve noticed a growing trend of individuals expressing opinions on social media platforms. It seems that discourse is once again becoming harsh. These people, often without the necessary expertise, are quick to criticize with phrases like “I don’t like that” or “I don’t like this.” They’re not aiming to be like Joan Rivers, and unfortunately, their comments lack humor. I can’t help but feel disheartened because they seem unaware of the hard work and dedication that goes into creating a style.
ZOE: Agreed. But I don’t pay attention to them. I just don’t take it that seriously.
I’ve had conversations with several stylists, and they seem unconcerned about the issue. They neither pay attention to it nor consider it significant. Fortunately, this appears to be a positive aspect.
A significant part of my work prior to taking a break involved discussing media choices with clients. I would help them decide which media outlets would best capture their intended image versus those that might not. This ranged from choosing options that seemed safer, more glamorous, and widely appealing to those that carried a bit more risk, or were potentially controversial, or not universally understood.
I’d like to be upfront about my preference: “This style might not be instantly clear to everyone, but I adore it. It’s my top pick and what I find most intriguing. However, it might be more fitting for events like the Met Ball or CFDA Awards, or a larger fashion statement, rather than a choice that appeals to everyone universally.” In this way, I’m giving you a heads-up without making it seem too daunting.
It appears that such casual, judgmental comments about people’s appearances, often heard on channels like E!, such as “Oh my God, what were they thinking? I can’t believe she wore that.” or “Oh my God, she looks like a clown,” are becoming less common. I find this trend quite pleasant.
However, I believe a significant amount of creativity has been sacrificed along the way. Many of my preferred designs from the catwalk never make it onto the streets due to the trend in which numerous individuals bound by fashion design contracts are required to adhere closely to specific guidelines.
ALT1: I was about to mention this. With such a large number of brand ambassadors, does it limit the scope for innovation and creativity?
ALT2: That’s a topic I wanted to discuss. Does having numerous brand ambassadors restrict the possibilities for originality and imagination?
ALT3: I was planning to raise this point. Could the abundance of brand ambassadors potentially reduce the space for fresh ideas and creativity?
ZOE: Indeed, I get it. Here’s the thing: Actors often aspire to star in films that could potentially earn them an Oscar, and those movies usually have minimal budgets. This means, as stylists, our favorite aspects of our work are often the least financially rewarding.
In this modern era of fashion, everyone involved – from stylists to hairstylists, makeup artists, and even manicurists – are running their own business ventures. They must all play the game of commerce because they’re all launching their unique brands and products, making it more competitive than ever before.
It seems that when I used to style clients, there was a significant shift compared to now. Back then, I didn’t share our work on social media with them. Social media platforms like Twitter were just emerging, and my clients certainly weren’t posting about their styling sessions. Our collaborations were kept very confidential, carried out discreetly away from public scrutiny. However, I did find myself in the limelight occasionally. People would ask about what they were wearing, what my thought process was, and where the inspiration came from. Nowadays, before a high-profile event, photos of the outfit have already been leaked, causing a frenzy among fans who want to know every detail – “Is it Valentino? Versace? Gucci?” This constant speculation would often lead to my phone ringing non-stop with questions.
THR: Now, it’s a press release and it’s contractual.
ZOE: I think a lot of the mystery is gone now.
ALT: Indeed, it’s accurate. It’s often a case of ‘if you pay, you play.’ Sometimes, I find myself questioning the pairing of a necklace with a dress, thinking it’s an odd combination. Then, I realize, ah, that’s why…
ZOE: This is due to the fact that they received payment. The situation has evolved, and it’s important to adapt or step aside. Nowadays, stylists, hair professionals, makeup artists, and others are often part of the story and the focus. In some instances, this is even anticipated. However, when I was working, if people asked to interview me on a red carpet with a client, I would decline. Similarly, if they requested a photograph of me on a red carpet with a client, I would also refuse.
PAR: At the beginning, did you ever imagine yourself as the one who would eventually gain widespread recognition?
ZOE: I’ve never aspired for fame, quite the contrary. My fame came about unexpectedly. If you were to speak with my parents now, they would tell you that from the moment I graduated college, my father often advised me, “You should be on the other side of the camera, in front.” And I, being a person who prefers to stay out of the limelight, have rejected leading roles. For instance, I turned down the chance to play Sandy and instead opted for Cha Cha in Grease. I’ve always been more at ease behind the scenes.
One could argue that you were part of a reality series (“The Rachel Zoe Project”), but it’s important to note that the show’s focus wasn’t on me personally. Instead, it was intended to highlight the designers. In fact, I aimed to embody a role similar to Elsa Klensch for CNN Style.
(Note: This version aims to maintain the original meaning while using more natural and easy-to-read language.)
My aspiration was to truly shine a spotlight on my idols: John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace, and Jean-Paul Gaultier. This had been my dream. Could I possibly converse with these individuals? Could I encounter them? Could I visit their homes, their studios? I’m so infatuated with them, particularly Marc Jacobs.
It seems like it was your husband Rodger who stated in a 2011 article, “Don’t you find it hard to believe that anyone else could be named a stylist?” This is because, as far as I can tell, at that time, not many people were familiar with what the term ‘stylist’ signified.
They didn’t get it when I said I was a stylist; their reaction was “Do you do hair?” which annoyed me a bit back then because there wasn’t much awareness about fashion through social media or TV, except maybe Project Runway had started around that time. People didn’t comprehend the process behind creating those fabulous looks on pages, runways, and red carpets. My role models were Grace Coddington and Carine Roitfeld, and I found it hard to believe people didn’t know who they were. This sparked a strong desire in me to educate others about the mystery of fashion – how it transforms from concept to reality on various platforms.
PAR: Aren’t editorial stylists who once disregarded red-carpet styling interesting? They didn’t appreciate its value until they found out it could be profitable! This was during their earlier days.
ZOE: I wasn’t well-regarded, quite the contrary, I was often criticized by many in my field. Yet, I couldn’t help but cherish it deeply – I simply adored it so much.
Initially, models graced magazine covers, but soon enough, celebrities took their place. Following this shift, the focus turned to red carpet styling. This change occurred because that’s where the publicity was, and it also became a prime advertising spot for designers on the carpet.
ZOE: A hundred percent, a hundred percent.
Regarding the matter of the THR list, would you consider it possible that being included could significantly impact the professional path of a stylist? In other words, does making The Hollywood Reporter’s esteemed list have the potential to alter a stylist’s career progression?
ZOE: It’s quite amusing. When Hollywood Reporter informed me of this, I didn’t truly comprehend its significance at the moment because I was the pioneer, wasn’t I? I was engrossed in so many photoshoots, and with work consuming my life 24/7, on the brink of having a baby. I couldn’t even grasp what was unfolding, as everything at that point seemed merely part of the job. Everything was just another task, something I loved doing, but it was all so overwhelming.
Last year was a real game-changer for me. My publicist got a call saying, “Alright, you’ve already been at the top, and now…” Since the following year turned out to be quite a whirlwind, with no less than five clients competing during award season, the magazine decided to label me as “too big to rate” or something along those lines. It was hilarious! I couldn’t help but wonder, “What on earth does that mean?” I can’t get enough of the media and its quirks.
However, let me emphasize, it was an honor indeed, and as you are well aware, being the first at anything comes with its unique challenges. Over time, I’ve found myself in the position of being the first for numerous things, not all of which have been favorable. I’ve often been referred to as a seer, a pioneer, a creator – titles I’ve earned through my various endeavors.
THR: It’s tougher because you’re breaking new ground.
ZOE: Indeed, it’s correct. Most people aren’t open-minded about this. When I reflect upon my stylist friends like Rob [Zangardi], Mariel [Haenn], Karla [Welch], and others, it strikes me as intriguing because I think to myself, “You don’t realize how fortunate you are.” You have the backing of your clients, their teams, and they provide you with the opportunity to introduce your own products and brands. You can openly discuss them without fear of repercussions. They’ll even appear alongside you on magazine covers to boost your profile. That’s a significant shift, I must say. However, I used to feel embarrassed.
I generally wouldn’t discuss a client without their consent. If I managed to secure approval from their publicist, and contacted their agents, I might say something like, “Harper’s Bazaar is interested in interviewing me about what so-and-so wore. However, I won’t proceed unless you find it necessary.” Currently, it seems that discussions about such matters are quite open in many aspects. In essence, media is media, and I believe the teams are generally content with these conversations taking place.
THR: There was a time when the clients used to deny having a stylist.
ME, AS A GAMER: Wow, I’ve got to say, it’s fascinating! Just like in our gaming world, we have designers, coders, artists, streamers… Each one of them is a credit to their craft, and it’s truly remarkable. They all work tirelessly to bring us the best experiences, which is simply beautiful.
ALT1: Aren’t there celebrities who dislike being in the limelight alongside others? They seem uncomfortable when their personal stylist gains as much fame as they do, and so they tend to work with stylists who prefer a more low-key role, I imagine.
Occasionally, I agree. I believe there are those who continue to keep certain matters private. Let me add, I understand and support their wish for discretion. In fact, I share the viewpoint that some aspects of our lives should remain undisclosed. After all, isn’t a touch of secrecy appealing?
What I’ve noticed shifting over time is the dynamics within the teams. When I was engaged in styling, it seemed challenging to find individuals I could rely on as team members. Perhaps it was my inexperience, or maybe I entrusted them too much, or perhaps I grew overly attached. However, it appears that my contemporary stylist friends have built strong support networks and teams who work effectively with them. Teams that don’t jeopardize client relationships, that avoid repeating past mistakes. And I believe this is a positive development.
THR: I’ve heard so many horror stories.
ZOE: Oh, God. A very big part of why I had to stop.
Q: What’s your take on the styles being showcased currently? Do any specific stylists or designers particularly catch your eye, or who’s making a mark on the red carpet these days that inspires you?
ZOE: Nicole Kidman consistently appears impeccable. In my opinion, she holds the most impressive collection of red carpet looks over time, possibly even a record. I’m not aware of who her stylist is, but I believe that ultimately, it’s Nicole herself who makes the final decision. Regardless of how talented the stylist may be, Nicole will always have the last say.
ALT1: By recalling the Galliano for Dior gown she donned at the Oscars, it’s evident that she holds her own views.
ALT2: If you remember the dress she wore to the Oscars by Galliano for Dior, you can tell she has strong opinions of her own.
ALT3: Going back to the gown she wore at the Oscars from Galliano for Dior, it’s clear that she stands firm in her convictions.
Each alternative maintains the original meaning while providing a different way to express the idea.
ALICE: Transformative, plus her unique fashion sense. I simply admire her choices.
As a gaming enthusiast, here’s my spin on your text:
When it comes to JLo, I’ve always got her back. She’s the kind of gal who consistently delivers, never fails to excite, and always slays with her flawless makeup and hair. It’s that consistency that keeps a smile on my face.
THR: I loved when she moved into her Brunello Cuccinelli moment as well. Her quiet luxury era.
ZOE: What really appeals to me about her is how versatile she is, almost like a chameleon. On Mondays, she might opt for a subtle Brunello style with minimal makeup… but by Wednesday, she’s transformed into a bold Tamara Ralph look, revealing half her body and sporting vivid makeup. I admire those who aren’t afraid to adapt and embrace change, especially when it comes to fashion.
I, too, hold a fondness for Daisy Edgar-Jones, as she evokes the essence of Dakota Johnson for me. Meanwhile, Suki Waterhouse never fails to delight, as I find myself drawn to her in much the same way as I am to Penny Lane at heart.
Over the past few years, Zendaya has truly brought joy to many occasions for me. For instance, when I saw her in Bob Mackie’s vintage collection, it took my breath away.
As a gamer, I’ve got to say, I find it quite intriguing how they’re diving back into the old archives with their designs lately.
ZOE: You know my stance on that matter. It’s amusing how often people ask if I’ll return to styling. Truth be told, there have been numerous items displayed on the runways over the past two years that I find utterly wasted – pieces I would promptly remove if I were in charge of styling. I would go as far as personally transporting them from Paris to LA just to use them, if necessary. My question remains unanswered: why aren’t these items being worn? Why are they not being utilized?
THR: I know! Especially Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli.
ZOE: I’m quite confident he’ll be at the Oscars. Yes, indeed. [Note: At the Oscars, Ariana Grande donned a satin and tulle dress created by Daniel Roseberry, which was inspired by an antique lamp in Maison Schiaparelli’s archive.]
ALT: Regarding the red carpet fashion, what stands out for me is when stylists manage to make non-size zero individuals shine. For instance, Zendaya always looks stunning, but it’s inspiring to see other people who aren’t typical models look amazing too.
ZOE: I concur, and it seems this change is happening from all angles. I believe designers across various sectors of the industry are championing body positivity and diverse body types. Frankly, I find this development incredibly uplifting because, as you and I both know, in the past, when someone would say, “She’s not a size 2,” or “Our samples are size 2,” that would often be the end of it… But now, it’s so much more inclusive.
I’M GLAD. It’s fantastic! There’s been a significant increase in unique, custom designs and handcrafted items being produced.
ZOE: I’d like to discuss another aspect of the industry for a moment. People frequently ask, “Why don’t they just have something custom-made instead?” The truth is, many high-end brands can afford to do this regularly due to their financial resources. Creating new designs involves risk and cost, making it a significant gamble that can be quite scary.
As a gamer, I’m often asked, “Why do so many people sport this particular brand? Why are there always six of them wearing it?” Well, it’s not just about the fame associated with these celebrities. It’s about financial freedom and luxury that allows them to not only potentially collaborate with these stars, but also to customize an array of choices exclusively for them.
I recall Carlos de Souza of Valentino mentioning that they’d create tailored gowns, ship them across, however, there was absolutely no assurance they’d be worn, nor any assurance they’d be sent back afterwards.>
Each evening, Carlos and I would chat on the phone: “Is Keira going to wear that dress?” But there was always uncertainty. Nothing about it was set in stone, and the expenses were quite substantial. The whole situation is far more intricate than most people perceive. This brings me back to the social media commentators who say, “Yes, no, yes, no, I dislike this.” No! These outfits require immense work and skill, only to be diminished in a fleeting video clip. Could we please show a bit more admiration?
ZOE: A hundred percent.
Show extra kindness towards women who might be older or larger in size. After all, we could all make an effort to be a little more understanding and compassionate.
ZOE: I couldn’t agree more. I couldn’t agree more.
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2025-03-07 17:27