Summary
- In the luxury sector, new developments are taking shape as Maria Grazia Chiuri departs from Dior, while contemporary French label Jacquemus reveals its independent holding company, and the ANDAM Fashion Awards unveils its Grand Prize nominees, including Mexican-American designer Willly Chavarria.
- Some international streetwear labels are making big moves, as Brain Dead expands its retail presence to NYC and Children of the Discordance is welcomed into the 108th Pitti Uomo programming. However, others are stopped in their tracks as French label Vetements is halted from trademarking its name in the US.
This article gathers the most significant fashion news of the past seven days, ensuring you’re well-informed about the latest styles and trends shaping the industry.
Maria Grazia Chiuri Steps Down as Dior Women’s Artistic Director
On Thursday, Maria Grazia Chiuri announced that she was leaving her role as creative director of Dior’s women’s clothing and haute couture lines, marking the end of her nine-year stint at the prestigious French fashion brand. The news came shortly after her Cruise 2026 show in Rome, which is now believed to be her last collection for the house. In 2016, Chiuri made history by becoming the first woman to head Dior since its establishment in 1947.
Delphine Arnault, head of Christian Dior Couture, expressed gratitude towards Maria Grazia Chiuri, stating she’s done remarkable work with a feminist perspective and unmatched creativity that aligns with the spirit of Monsieur Dior. Her time at Dior was marked by a strong feminist approach, using empowering messages and frequent collaborations with female artists for her runway designs. Although the next leader hasn’t been confirmed yet, whispers indicate that Jonathan Anderson, who just became the creative director for Dior Men, might also assume control over the women’s line.
Brain Dead Opens New NYC Outpost
As a devoted admirer myself, I’m thrilled to share that Brain Dead, the innovative LA collective, has officially opened its first retail store in the heart of New York City at 202 Elizabeth Street. This East Coast expansion signifies a significant milestone for the brand, reinforcing its presence and providing a tangible gathering spot for its vibrant community of enthusiasts and collaborators. The new store showcases a whimsical interior design brimming with eccentric elements such as an enormous hippo art sculpture and fixtures embellished with intricate 3D-printed trimmings.
As a devoted fan, I can’t help but feel thrilled about Brain Dead’s decision to open a flagship store right here in the heart of New York City! This move is a testament to the growing bond we share and their knack for crafting captivating brand encounters. Instead of simply being a shopping destination, this store will serve as a tangible embodiment of their values, bringing together various worlds, cultures, and viewpoints under one roof – just like their Brain Dead Studios on Fairfax Street in Los Angeles does so effectively. I can’t wait to experience the unique blend of creativity, passion, and community that this new space will undoubtedly bring!
Jacquemus’ New Holdings Company Is Worth More Than $500 Million USD
Jacquemus has consolidated all its operations under a single umbrella with their own holding company, Jacquemus La Maison Mère. This company was officially established in March and is led by designer Simon Porte Jacquemus. Currently, it manages two main divisions: Jacquemus La Mode, which represents the ready-to-wear segment of the label valued at approximately €530 million EUR, and Jacquemus La Beauté, the beauty line worth around €46.1 million EUR according to Fashion Network. The company owns 98.15% of Jacquemus La Mode and has full control over Jacquemus La Beauté. Together, these segments are valued at approximately €576.1 million EUR.
In February, fashion brand Jacquemus joined forces with L’Oréal in a unique beauty collaboration, with L’Oréal purchasing a 10% share of the company. The subsequent month saw Sarah Benady, former president of Celine North America, take over as CEO to guide the brand towards becoming a prominent global luxury house. As Jacquemus pursues international development, Jacquemus La Maison Mère paves the way for a growing and diversifying brand universe that’s branching out into various product categories.
Willy Chavarria Among 2025 Finalists for Top ANDAM Prize
After making a successful debut at Paris Fashion Week last January, Mexican-American menswear designer Willy Chavarria has been named one of the finalists for both the Grand and Special Prizes at the ANDAM Fashion Awards 2025. Other finalists include EGONlab, a popular French mens label that won the Pierre Bergé Prize in 2021, as well as three women’s designers: Alain Paul, Meryll Rogge, and Zomer. Established in 1989 by Nathalie Dufour with support from the French Ministry of Culture, ANDAM was created to provide a platform for nurturing young, emerging designers on both the French and international fashion scenes.
In a statement for WWD, Dufour expressed that regardless of their stage of development, whether new or well-established brands, maintaining liquidity is crucial to ensure their longevity. He further noted that the chosen profiles provide an intriguing perspective on various economic models that can help thrive and make a mark in a highly competitive market: B2C strategy, niche positioning, managed growth, innovative approaches, and eco-friendliness. The 2025 ANDAM Fashion Award ceremony is scheduled for June 20 at 7 pm CEST.
Children of the Discordance to Stage a Runway Show at Pitti Uomo 108
At the upcoming 108th Pitti Uomo in Florence’s Fortezza da Basso (from June 17 to 20), Asian designers are making a more significant impact than before. This event will feature over 730 brands displaying their Spring/Summer 2026 collections in a sprawling, exhibition-like trade show setup. Additionally, runway presentations from various designers will take place, among them Homme Plissé Issey Miyake (previously announced as the guest of honor), PAF (Post Archive Faction), Niccolò Pasqualetti, and now, Children of the Discordance. This brand, established in 2011 by Hideaki Shikama, is known for its unique style that blends intricate craftsmanship with deconstructed streetwear and repurposed materials. In partnership with the Japan Fashion Week Organization, Pitti Uomo has invited Children of the Discordance to host a “Special Event” during the fair, which will include a runway show on June 17.
Vetements Too “Generic” to Be Trademarked in the US
In simple terms, the fashion brand Vetements, founded by Demna, has been unsuccessful in its long-standing attempt to trademark its name in the United States. The U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit agreed with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office’s decision that “vetements” (French for “clothing”) is too general a term when applied to garments and retail services. Since French is widely spoken and taught in the U.S., and because “vetements” directly describes the clothing goods at issue, the court upheld the original decision. The brand, which was established by siblings Demna and Guram Gvasalia in 2014, made an attempt to register a U.S. trademark for apparel and online retail services in 2020. However, the USPTO has decided not to consider any further evidence in support of their appeal.
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2025-05-30 23:56