Marni Bids Farewell to Francesco Risso

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Summary

  • On Wednesday, Marni confirmed the exit of Creative Director Francesco Risso, after 10 years at the brand. Though the OTB-owned label has yet to announce a replacement, rumors speculate on the return of a female creative director.

In a statement made to Vogue on Wednesday morning, it was confirmed that Francesco Risso, Marni’s Creative Director for the past decade, is leaving the company. He took up this position in 2016 and was the sole creative leader of the Italian label since then, apart from founder Consuelo Castiglioni who established the brand in 1994.

I’ll forever remain indebted to Renzo [Rosso] for having faith in me, for providing me a prime position on an adventure that surpassed all my expectations, as he revealed to Vogue. Marni served as a workshop, a platform, a vision. It held color, intuition, compassion, and allowed room for individuals to express themselves genuinely. It showed me the way to construct with emotion and demonstrated the might of genuine collaboration.

Risso built upon Castiglioni’s heritage by embracing a hands-on philosophy, pushing the vibrant colors and textures established by the founders to new heights and attracting a fresh audience to the label. Risso’s knitwear with chunky textures, bohemian floral patterns, and innovative reinventions resonated with luxury consumers who appreciate edgy styles. His neon furry slippers, luxurious mohair cardigans, and clothing adorned with hand-drawn and painted designs were popular among Gen Z and Millennials, leading to collaborations with Dingyun Zhang of Yeezy, Carhartt WIP, and even R&B artist Erykah Badu.

The appointment marks a series of transitions within the OTB Group, the parent company that oversees brands such as Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, and others. Previously, Glenn Martens, who is also the head designer at Diesel, took on additional responsibilities by joining Maison Margiela to fill the vacancy left by John Galliano’s departure last year. In February, Lucie and Luke Meier stepped down from their roles at Jil Sander, with Simone Bellotti being appointed as their successor in March.

Bringing back a female perspective to the brand might stir nostalgia among long-time Marni fans who’ve missed Castiglioni’s unique style, as she primarily focused on the women’s line before 2006 when the mens line was introduced. There are whispers that Virginie Viard, formerly of Chanel, or Maria Grazia Chiuri, previously with Dior, could be in charge. However, their expertise lies more in traditional luxury and haute couture, which might not align perfectly with Marni’s youthful Italian identity.

As a gaming enthusiast, I’d say, “Instead of playing it safe like other big-name designers, Marni is aiming higher, keeping its unique spirit alive with the fresh perspective of a newcomer. A bold and free-thinking designer such as Martine Rose would be an excellent fit, with her quirky inspirations, vibrant color schemes, and sometimes playful design elements. For instance, Marni’s fluffy pastel-colored Hoka runners mirror Rose’s puffed and candy-colored footwear designs for Clarks. The British designer’s devoted fanbase could inject the excitement required to enhance the conglomerate’s charm amidst the luxury market’s downturn.

Could it be that OTB Group might choose to break free from the cycle that has been limiting the variety of creative directors, instead?

Currently, at the point of this writing, Marni hasn’t confirmed a successor for Risso as of yet. Keep an eye on TopMob for the most recent updates in the world of fashion.

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2025-06-18 18:26