Dries Van Noten, Without Dries Van Noten

As a longtime admirer and follower of Dries Van Noten‘s work, I must say that this collection is nothing short of breathtaking. It’s like a vibrant, chaotic symphony of fashion, each piece telling its own story, yet harmoniously blending together to create an extraordinary whole.

For the first time, Dries Van Noten’s brand showcased a collection without its founder, Dries Van Noten himself, during Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday afternoon. After 38 years leading his label, the man, Dries Van Noten, retired from fashion in June, leaving behind a legacy that moved many to tears at his final men’s runway show. Now, the brand is embarking on a new journey as they design their Spring 2025 collection using inspiration drawn from the designer’s own archives, as no new creative director has been appointed yet.

The designers at the studio skillfully paid tribute to Van Noten’s heritage, which was characterized by bold patterns, luxurious fabrics, daring color schemes, and elegant silhouettes. Previous designers’ concepts harmoniously merged “along an optimistic trajectory, encompassing the earliest women’s collections up to what’s yet to come,” according to the label’s show notes. Remarkably, they achieved this in a chaotic fashion—animal prints, vibrant hues, bold stripes, and graphic illustrations clashing together in individual ensembles—that the final, trendy outcome appeared almost like a trick of magic.

In this unique blend, snakeskin trench coats harmonized with satin shirts and pants, while sleek bomber jackets matched ornate skirts and exotic handbags – all exemplifying true eclecticism. The studio’s formal attire showcased a striking design, such as a pinstripe blazer-top fusion featuring a single lapel that stood out prominently. Bold eveningwear, like vibrant green gowns adorned with lace, exuded an air of mischief. Amidst the chaos, colors provided some semblance of structure, as ensembles moved from warm neutrals to captivating purples, earthy tones, and soft pastels during the transition. However, it was the absence of a clear pattern that maintained an exhilarating vibe.

At the backstage entrance, Van Noten appeared content with the direction of his nomination, perhaps even having played a role in the selection of what graced the runway.

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