As a long-time follower of fashion and digital culture, I must say that Wisdom Kaye’s rise to fame is nothing short of remarkable. His ability to style himself in ensembles inspired by every corner of the world and every era of history is truly extraordinary. It’s no wonder Anna Wintour gave him a ticket to this year’s Met Gala.
Today marks the start of New York Fashion Week, where we’ll see a flurry of stylish happenings that mark fashion month. In the heart of American fashion, Off-White™ is set to make its grand entrance, while established brands like Willy Chavarria, Luar, Eckhaus Latta, Tommy Hilfiger, LaQuan Smith and others are returning for the Spring/Summer 2025 runway events.
Starting next week, I’ll be in London where Chopova Lowena, Harris Reed, Burberry, and others will strut their stuff on the runway, with rising stars like Chet Lo and Sinéad O’Connor also making an appearance. The following week, it’s off to Milan for a feast of fashion as Gucci, Fendi, Prada reveal their warm-weather collections for next year. Can’t wait to see the spectacular shows from Moschino, Versace, Ferragamo, and over 50 other designers!
Paris will round out the month with approximately 70 shows and 38 presentations, with Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès, Dior, Acne Studios, Vivienne Westwood, Rick Owens, Issey Miyake, Balmain, Saint Laurent, Coperni being some of the most eagerly awaited. The list doesn’t end there though.
Among all the chaos surrounding fashion’s worldwide adventures this month, here are some key points worth noting.
Less Viral Swings, More Quality Things
In recent fashion seasons, runways have transformed into hotbeds for skyrocketing social media interaction. For instance, think back to the Fall/Winter 2024 shows of AVAVAV and SUNNEI in Milan, where unconventional elements like trash being thrown and comical internal dialogues were part of the spectacle. When done skillfully, these out-of-the-box ideas (often referred to as gimmicks within the industry) can morph into iconic pop culture instances born from creative brilliance – Bella Hadid’s spray-on Coperni dress being a notable example. However, it’s crucial to tread carefully when aiming for virality.
In 2024, virality is essential for fashion brands to thrive; without the buzz of social media alerts, numerous labels, particularly newcomers, risk being lost in a crowded market of seemingly successful designers with digital influence. However, when pursued excessively, the quest for visibility can be problematic, as the amplified reach frequently attracts fleeting interest rather than lasting engagement. Thus, I propose we focus on showcasing exceptional fashion design and let the clothes tell their own story, whether they are adorned with gimmicks or not.
Off-White™’s New York Minute
It may come as a surprise to you, but Off-White™, an innovative fashion label conceived by the late Virgil Abloh, has never held a runway show in New York City. Usually based in Milan and presenting in Paris, this week, however, they will make their American debut on the New York Fashion Week platform for the first time.
Ib Kamara is currently spearheading the brand now, as he previously collaborated with Virgil Abloh on Off-White’s styling before the influential designer’s demise. In a conversation with Vogue, Kamara disclosed that Abloh had intentions to relocate Off-White to New York in 2022; however, this event was postponed indefinitely following his untimely passing.
Kamara expressed, “Now seems like the perfect moment to make an appearance. It feels organic to develop and demonstrate our presence, especially since a large portion of our community surrounds this brand. I believe it will be fantastic and rewarding for Off-White™ to debut here for the first time in the city.
A Trip to the Year 3000
2033 fashion enthusiasts are looking ahead to the year 3000, as suggested by retail research company EDITED. This anticipated style, known as Y3K, takes inspiration from frequently-repeated Y2K style elements, combining a futuristic take on sci-fi streetwear with a dash of ’00s nostalgia. The trend is primarily being driven by the widespread success of Charli XCX’s cyberpop album, Brat, and emerging technological advancements such as the metaverse and artificial intelligence.
In this fashion trend, you’ll find a variety of silver metallics, off-shoulder styles, asymmetrical cuts, and forward-thinking graphic designs, similar to those seen on the album covers of the underground “digicore” music scene. Completing this club-inspired aesthetic are reflective makeup, fishnets, and high platform shoes. As more artists join the ultra-popular movement into the new year and beyond, expect brands like Blumarine, Balenciaga, Vetements, Rick Owens, and others to offer protective sunglasses and revealing silhouettes for their fans’ late-night adventures.
The Harry Styles Effect on S.S. Daley
Following the grand finale at S.S. Daley’s Fall 2024 show during Pitti Uomo in Florence, the renowned British designer (known as Steven Stokey-Daley) created quite a stir by revealing that Harry Styles has become a minority shareholder in his business.
The designer expressed after the show that Harry and they share the same idea about the future of S.S. Daley. They are excited to embark on this new phase together, concentrating on making the brand last and expanding it into a contemporary symbol of British tradition.
For quite some time, Styles has been a devoted admirer of the brand, and it was his stylist, Harry Lambert, who initially introduced him to Daley. It’s worth mentioning that the artist behind “Harry’s House” single wore Stokey-Daley’s graduation collection from the University of Westminster in the music video for “Golden.
The details of the agreement weren’t disclosed, but it appears that the investment has helped the designer grow his direct-to-consumer business and facilitate “durable and ongoing growth,” as per available accounts.
Previously, the designer used Sir Ian McKellen to recite Alfred Tennyson’s poem “Idylls of the King: The Coming of Arthur” during his show. Given this, it’s possible that Daley might invite Harry Styles to appear at his London Fashion Week runway as well. At the very least, Styles’ signature style is likely to influence Daley’s future fashion designs, making them noteworthy among the elite. Keep an eye on TopMob to see how Styles’ unique flair impacts Daley’s brand.
The FIFA-Fication of Fashion
2025 World Cup outfits are currently a significant trend in contemporary fashion, and since the event is set to occur in the United States from June to July of next year, designers are likely already brainstorming how their Spring/Summer 2025 collections and promotions will be influenced by or connected to this widely-anticipated, globally recognized tournament.
Clearly, the Cup’s sporty nature may not align perfectly with the styles of big fashion brands, but as the event nears, we can expect announcements of collaborations with national teams. However, it’s likely that clothing inspired by football will start blending with high-fashion designs for brands active in the sportswear industry, making its way onto the runway.
It’s possible that Balenciaga, having already launched a “Football Series” this year, may broaden its collaboration with Under Armour to offer top-notch athletic wear for the summer of next year. Alternatively, Off-White™, known for incorporating sports symbols into its collections, might score with garments inspired by football kits. BOSS, the more refined brand under the Hugo Boss umbrella, often finds inspiration in athletics. Burberry, who boasts South Korean football star Son Heung-min as an ambassador, has historically been popular among football’s fanatics. The fashion world eagerly awaits the start of Fashion Month to see how these brands will play their cards on the field.
Dries Van Noten’s Legacy Carried on Correctly
As a devoted follower, I can’t wait to witness Dries Van Noten’s show in Paris on September 25, marking the debut of his label’s first collection without its legendary designer leading the way. After an emotional farewell at the metallic Spring/Summer 2025 runway for his 150th collection, Van Noten bid adieu to the tearful audience in June, concluding a remarkable 38-year career that has secured him a prestigious position within the fashion industry’s elite.
Instead of a new creative director, Dries Van Noten’s upcoming Spring/Summer 2025 collection is being designed by the brand’s internal studio team. They face great expectations to preserve the intricate craftsmanship and stunning print designs that have defined Van Noten’s fashion legacy for decades. The team certainly has the skills to reference, celebrate, and expand upon Van Noten’s most iconic moments, but it remains to be seen if their work can capture the enchantment of his personal touch. Ultimately, the decision will rest with Van Noten’s devoted fan base.
Wisdom’s Wild Fits
Fashion influencer Wisdom Kaye, famously known as “The Best Dressed Man on TikTok,” has moved beyond the platform’s 2D screen and now attends nearly every major fashion brand’s runway show. This is well-deserved recognition for his exceptional style skills, evident in videos that have garnered over 50 million views. In these videos, he creatively styles himself in ensembles inspired by various countries from the Olympics or eras spanning from 5000 BCE to 3333. Kaye’s vast and impressive style range has made him a standout in today’s digital world. To further validate this claim, he was granted Anna Wintour’s approval to attend this year’s Met Gala, where he showcased his unique look in a custom Robert Wun design.
Ever since his emergence in 2020, Wisdom has been the go-to stylist for Colm Dillane’s last two KidSuper shows. He’s also served as a guest judge on Project Runway, garnered numerous accolades for his groundbreaking success, and collaborated with many of high fashion’s leading brands. There’s often controversy surrounding social media influencers at fashion events, but when it comes to Wisdom, the industry widely agrees: he deserves a spot on the team. Let’s see what new ideas he brings this time around.
Alessandro Michele’s Valentino Vision
In March, Alessandro Michele was officially appointed as the new creative director for Valentino. Previously known for his work at Gucci, he unexpectedly released a collection consisting of 171 looks for Resort 2025 in June. Now, he’s preparing to present his first runway show for the esteemed Italian fashion house in Paris.
The show will solidify the path that Michele plans to guide Valentino, a house previously led by Pierpaolo Piccioli for 25 years. The maximalist styles beloved at Gucci, as demonstrated by Michele, seem set to be continued in his tenure at Valentio, based on the vibrant Resort collection he presented – a style that fans of Michele’s work at Gucci should appreciate just as much.
Initially, Michele shared with Vogue Runway that his mood board is adorned with the storied past of the Valentino label: “My initial thoughts are centered on this narrative – the wealth of its cultural and symbolic heritage, the sense of awe it consistently evokes, and the unique identity bestowed upon it by its founders, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti. These references have always been a vital source of inspiration for me, and I plan to honor their influence through my unique perspective and creative vision.
How exactly those references manifest will be revealed in Paris on September 29.
Coperni’s Day at Disney
On October 1st, Coperni, known for its innovative spray-painted dresses like the one worn by Bella Hadid, will make history as the first fashion label to host a show at Disneyland Paris. The possibilities for incorporating Disney’s beloved characters and narratives into the fashion spectacle are truly limitless.
In an interview with WWD, Coperni’s cofounder Arnaud Vaillant expressed that fashion can sometimes be elitist. To eliminate this exclusivity, it would be intriguing for Coperni to embrace the whimsy of “The Happiest Place on Earth” and encourage a sense of childlike wonder among the Voguettes. Imagine eveningwear designs reminiscent of Disney princesses, bags modeled after iconic movie items like Snow White’s poisoned apple, or even a humorous appearance by Goofy! Lastly, let’s not forget to include Mickey Mouse ears on the front row as an added touch of magic.
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2024-09-06 19:26