As a fashion enthusiast with a penchant for both the avant-garde and the ethereal, I found myself utterly captivated by HELIOT EMIL‘s SS25 presentation in Paris. The invitation itself, an amorphous stone emblazoned with cryptic words, piqued my curiosity and set the stage for a thought-provoking journey through the realms of culture, construct, and landscape.
The invitation to HELIOT EMIL’s SS25 presentation in Paris took the form of an amorphous stone affixed to a metal tab engraved with the words “Cultural Construct Artificial Landscape.” The name suggests thought-provoking opposites when rearranged: humanity vs. artificiality and construct vs. landscape.
The contradictions are explored further in a special center piece made by Encor Studio. HELIOT EMIL described the strobing electrochromic glass sculpture as illustrative of the “tension between what is natural and what is artificial” – a familiar tension that is felt on many lines today from generative AI to climate change.
This brand evokes mental pictures of Iceland’s striking geological contrasts between fire and ice as a means to explore this duality. In a recent Instagram post, creative director Julius Juul expressed that he drew inspiration from the awe-inspiring landscapes of Iceland. He found something extraordinarily alien about it, such as the volcanic coastlines, the dark mountains upon dark mountains, and the way the sand dunes sculpt organic, flowing forms.
The freshly born volcanic landscapes possess a certain minimalistic charm, which is echoed in the streamlined and textured essence of the Danish brand’s SS25 collection. The line primarily revolved around monochromatic black designs, adding depth through curvy lines and draped panels reminiscent of the smooth folds found in black lava fields. Hardware and accessories were given a geological makeover, with molten chrome ore-like materials adorned on one model’s shoulder and undulating carabiners reappearing in various looks across the collection. To soften the range, a terry-like fabric featuring winding grooves was used on a hoodie, while an extremely loose-knit yarn was employed for summer sweaters and skull caps.
Designs for puffer jackets in a lattice-like quilting pattern provide an optimal warmth for balmy weather. The off-white windbreakers are fashioned with interwoven layers of opaque material and transparent sections, mimicking a biological structure. This line is truly “alien-esque” and at times brings to mind interstellar sci-fi tales such as Dune. Distinctive futuristic elements like cooling vents, intricate multi-directional belt and zipper arrangements, and garments resembling tunics are particularly suggestive of the genre.
This assembly stirs a profound respect for our current and immediate environment, as well as imagines fresh connections with the uncharted landscapes of tomorrow. Be it deliberate or coincidental, HELIOT EMIL has crafted a line that gazes not only towards SS25, but far beyond.
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2024-09-28 00:56