As a seasoned gamer with a penchant for fashion, I can’t help but draw parallels between the gritty allure of the gaming world and the raw energy that permeated Ann Demeulemeester‘s Spring 2025 show in Paris. The fusion of punk and regency genres, much like the blend of action-packed adventures and strategic gameplay in my favorite games, was a captivating juxtaposition.
On a Saturday in Paris, the Spring 2025 collection by Ann Demeulemeester was designed for rock music enthusiasts. In a catwalk adorned with flowers, lined within a dark granite venue, Stefano Gallici, the creative director, presented a “Wall of References” for each guest to peruse at their seat. The booklet contained photographs, such as Hidemi Ogata’s “Blank Jet City,” Paul Grund’s “Blemishes,” and Glen E. Friedman’s “Mike Muir & Jim Muir,” which served as the basis for this season’s design concept. Notable attendees, including Luka Sabbat, Moses, and Richie Shazam, leafed through the book, while an electric guitarist electrified the runway before the official start of the show. As heads bobbed and heels clicked, models were poised to strut – all on rhythm.
Gallici drew inspiration for the collection from various miscellaneous thoughts and feelings he had encountered, which contributed to its overall atmosphere. Some of these elements included faded clothing from summer, bare chests and denim, as well as “Crystal Castle II” by Crystal Castles and “Rumors” by Fleetwood Mac – an assortment of ideas that surprisingly blended harmoniously. The designer explained, “This collection emerged from this mix of thoughts and feelings. I allowed them to unfold naturally, one found item leading to another lost one. There’s lace and denim, knit that floats like feathers. There’s an elongation and a slouchiness, and the adaptability of tailoring. There are countless ways of tying a neckerchief.
In his workshop, Gallici assembled a line of clothing that blended elements of the regency style with a punk twist. This included tailored suits, structured trousers, ruffled shirts, flowing gowns, and voluminous neck ties, yet there was also an edgy feel to it as leather vests were layered over delicate capes, and torn T-shirts were matched with silk pants. The collection’s diverse style reflects Gallici’s vision for the label, which he describes as “Ann Demeulemeester being a mental landscape that needs to be constructed piece by piece: adding, removing, weaving personal emotions and autobiography into the process, finding and losing, losing and finding.
“Let me dream a bit more,” he concluded.
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2024-09-29 22:26