As someone who has always been captivated by the great outdoors, I found myself deeply moved by the stories of Benje Williams and Ken Bernard, the co-founders of Outlandish. Growing up in the bustling cityscape of New York, I was under the misconception that nature had little to offer me here. However, learning about the vast forest coverage in New York State has sparked a renewed appreciation for the beauty that lies hidden within my own backyard.
Independent outdoor brands from New York City are carving their unique path by creating thoughtful, innovative products that straddle the boundary between rugged and sophisticated. Brands such as William Ellery, FSP Outdoors, and allmansright focus on designing equipment that performs equally well in the city subway system and on mountainous terrain.
Simultaneously, these labels must meet the aesthetic expectations that consumers now value (or perhaps even anticipate) in their equipment. Furthermore, as outdoor enthusiasts seek gear that reflects their identity from trusted brands, rather than merely customers, these trendy labels are merging the boundary between customer and community participant. They encourage buyers to join them on hikes, share their design processes, and advocate for transparency and environmental responsibility.
Operating a Brand out of New York
Trevor Davis operates a studio in East Williamsburg where he sells an extensive collection of clothing and accessories inspired by childhood nostalgia, named William Ellery. Concurrently, Blair Kemp from FSP Outdoors designs robust, handcrafted items such as fanny packs, backpacks, rucksacks, and chalk bags at his Bushwick residence. Lastly, allmansright, a company based in the Bronx, run by Livio Melo and Jennifer Jacobsson, focuses on creating ultralight equipment made from eco-friendly, waterproof materials.
Despite the fact that most of the mentioned brands may find it uncomfortable to be associated with “gorpcore” – a term that has evolved into a vague label for any products related to outdoor activities – the underlying principle of this movement persists. Top-performing technical specifications don’t necessarily mean sacrificing aesthetic appeal. Unlike the mass-produced items from brands that shaped the gorpcore trend, these independent labels challenge conventional ideas about what gear should look like by exploring new concepts and designs, prioritizing transparency in their production methods, and fostering dedicated fan bases.
As a gamer hailing from Tennessee now residing in the urban jungle of New York City, I find it ironic yet fitting that this metropolis, often perceived as under-explored when it comes to its surrounding diverse landscapes, serves as my homebase. Contrary to popular belief, New York isn’t just concrete and skyscrapers; it’s a city deeply rooted in the outdoors. Growing up, I’d never have imagined that this bustling metropolis could be considered an “outdoorsy” place, but it undeniably is.
Davis remarks that while he has resided in Washington State and Oregon, both requiring a car for everyday life, New York offers unique advantages such as easy access to renowned global parks, scaling Bear Mountain, or surfing at Rockaway Beach within just hours via train. This is a privilege often unavailable to those living in rural areas. Additionally, he notes that the United Nations Headquarters are situated here, serving as a platform for critical discussions on climate change.
During his teenage years when there wasn’t much else to do, the founder found that he was unwittingly sowing the seeds for his brand as he spent most of his time exploring nature. In maturity, Davis honed his passion for nature even more by working as a chef in fine dining establishments for a decade, where he deepened his understanding and love for natural, seasonal ingredients. Following his culinary career, Davis spent the next decade designing for a high-end menswear brand, a combination of experiences that ultimately formed the basis for William Ellery’s innovative philosophy.
As a gamer, I’d call William Ellery’s extensive product line “expedition gear,” equipment designed for versatility across various terrains and drawing inspiration from diverse figures like Jacques Cousteau and Jane Goodall. One of Davis’ most ingenious inventions is an iridescent jacket dubbed the JuneBug, boasting a stunning, bug-repellant shell modeled after a study revealing how beetles utilize their iridescent exoskeletons to avoid predators.
For Davis, who deeply immerses himself in scientific research, the jacket isn’t just an article of clothing; it’s a study in itself. The customers of William Ellery become “research subjects” whose purchases contribute towards funding innovative and experimental product lines. In return, he receives valuable feedback directly from these customers and often modifies products based on their suggestions. Moreover, Davis releases a catalog titled “Scientific Research,” which documents the process of creating a specific piece of gear and showcases its versatility across various environments through writing and photography.
Designing for the New York Consumer
Residing in New York City has influenced Davis to create designs that serve multiple purposes while remaining visually attractive. He considers the limited space of apartments, understanding that residents can only comfortably store a certain amount of items in their closets.
Davis remarks, “Being a resident of New York, we all dwell in compact apartments surrounded by our belongings. If you consider the space my surfboard occupies in my apartment and calculate its monthly rent, it’s approximately two dollars just for that surfboard.” He desires these garments to be aesthetically pleasing and versatile enough to blend seamlessly into various aspects of his life.
Most New Yorkers get around via public transportation, so bags need to withstand a 45-minute subway ride without leaving their wearer with sore shoulders, back sweats or many other commuter problems. Blair Kemp of FSP Outdoors similarly revisits and revises the designs for his fanny packs, backpacks, rucksacks and chalk bags in a constant pursuit of the lightest and most durable model. All of the packs are handsewn by Kemp in his airy Bushwick studio, and each bag on his website is accompanied by a lengthy text block diving into specific amendments that have been made to its current version. For example, the latest iteration of FSP’s popular Lumbar Pack has received a second strap for a more secure fit, a reflective swatch for night visibility and upgrades to its cord and zipper. Buyers are also told how long each item takes to make, from cutting fabric to sewing the final stitch (for the record, the Lumbar Pack took two and a half hours, while the Asym 40 Roll Top, a modern hiking backpack Kemp has been working developing “on and off for years,” entails six and half hours of sew time).
Sustainable Production Practices
Along with the style conscious, the environmentally aware customer may gravitate toward indie brands for their ethical production practices, such as using sustainable and recycled materials to minimize waste. With a focus on making access to the outdoors more equitable, allmansright is named after the Swedish tradition of “allemansrätt,” the right for everyone to freely explore their surroundings.
Most items from the leading brand established in The Bronx are crafted using Dyneema, a robust, non-woven fabric commonly found in boat sails and protective vests. This company contributes 2% of its earnings to environmental organizations and outdoor diversity initiatives, with details about these donations accessible on their website. Founders Melo and Jacobsson additionally offer custom orders, working closely with clients to produce a tailor-made pack for each individual customer.
William Ellery, FSP Outdoors, and allmansright stand out from large retailers due to their personal, hands-on methods. Their brand culture involves continuous refining and adjustment, giving customers a glimpse into the development process. Unlike showing only the end product, they reveal the evolution of their designs over time. Additionally, these brands manufacture in very small quantities, making each purchased item feel exclusive and special.
Cultivating an Inclusive Community
Exploring the great outdoors starts with equipment, but it’s more than just gear – it’s a tool to spark enthusiasm and create a visual appeal. Smaller brands leverage this as an entry point to an active outdoor lifestyle. Organizations such as TriState Hikers, Black Surfing Rockaway, and Camping to Connect organize events ranging from group hikes and trail runs to camping trips and surf sessions. The Outlandish gear store in Crown Heights showcases local brands like William Ellery and allmansright, and organizes regular hiking trips to various upstate trails. Co-founder Benje Williams challenges the notion that New York offers less natural beauty than other regions, explaining that “New York State has twice as much forest coverage as California. There’s approximately 60% forest coverage in New York, compared to only 30% in California.
Williams, together with Ken Bernard, the co-founder of Outlandish, aspire to establish a community centered around outdoor activities for individuals identifying as people of color. This memory of his first backpacking trip with his father in Sequoia National Park in 2021 remains vivid to Williams; during their four-day journey, they only encountered two other hikers of color. This eye-opening experience sparked the desire within him to cultivate a community in New York.
Bernard explains that the aim of Outlandish is to function more like a community center, a place where individuals can learn about equipment and then acquire it to join us on trails if desired.
Williams notes that historically, individuals from diverse racial backgrounds had strong connections with nature. However, due to events like the Great Migration and leaving the South, these relationships became complex or even severed. In my view, and I observe it in our hiking groups as well, there’s a sense of coming back to this bond.
Outlandish Adventures aims to make outdoor exploration less daunting for people by encouraging a casual approach and helping customers understand their equipment options. They often partner with TriState Hikers, a charitable organization that helps city dwellers with financial constraints enjoy nature, on events. The hikes they organize are usually filled within 24 hours of being announced, showing their widespread appeal.
Among the brands carried by Outlandish is Hikerkind, which was established by fashion industry veterans Chelsea Rizzo and Allison Levy due to their discontentment over the scarcity of fashionable clothing for outdoor activities. The brand based in Brooklyn seeks to encourage more women to explore trails by creating a female-led hiking club that conducts meetings in cities nationwide, including New York, Austin, Denver, Portland, and Southern California.
Rizzo points out that brands play a crucial part in influencing the culture of outdoor activities, often acting as valuable tools in making these environments more welcoming. Beyond organizing events, numerous companies leverage their platforms to offer resources for newcomers, prioritize outreach to underrepresented groups, and regularly address questions about appropriate gear for various outdoor pursuits.
Called by the allure of the outdoors, residents from New York (and cities across the globe) are responding. According to Kemp, a significant portion of FSP Outdoors’ sales come from major cities and the small towns near them. It’s not surprising that an FSP Outdoor backpack might cost more than its counterpart from Patagonia, given the evident craftsmanship that goes into each piece, a trait valued by consumers looking for durable gear to last them many years. Kemp extends a lifetime guarantee to his customers: if your bag gets torn or damaged, just send it to him, and he’ll fix it at no extra cost.
Stepping away from the sea of mainstream brand logos, embracing independent outdoor labels has evolved into a subtle statement of individuality – a signal that I’m part of an exclusive circle who appreciates lesser-known brands. Instead of catering to the elitism often associated with luxury and streetwear, visionaries like William Ellery, FSP Outdoors, allmansright, Hikerkind, and Outlandish are working tirelessly to make the great outdoors accessible for everyone, regardless of one’s self-perceived connection to nature.
According to Kemp, his aspiration lies in constructing items that will stand the test of time and fit harmoniously within our world. His goal is to create structures that encourage people to connect with nature and form lasting memories.
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2024-10-10 17:26