As a gamer, I’ve learned that if you can conquer New York, according to the legendary Frank Sinatra, you can triumph anywhere. However, when it comes to dining in Los Angeles, things don’t always go as smoothly for New York restaurants trying their luck here. Some like Roberta’s, Avra, and Dante have managed to create a local buzz. Five Leaves didn’t make the cut. Rao’s still hangs in there, though not with its original charm. It’s hard to predict the fate of newcomers Marea and Cipriani. Now, we welcome Alba, an offshoot of the Chelsea original Alba Cucina, to a Melrose Avenue location. This spot was initially suggested by Mark Birnbaum, co-founder of the nearby Catch, which successfully expanded from the Meatpacking District almost a decade ago. I wonder how this newcomer will fare in the competitive LA dining scene.
Alba excels in a style of Italian dining that Cobi Levy, her business partner, refers to as “vacation Italian.” This isn’t about adhering to geographical boundaries or authenticity; instead, it’s all about attitude and methodology. As Levy explains, whose other culinary projects include Little Prince and Lola Taverna, they aimed for a relaxed, international ambiance rather than being tied down by location. The result is an atmosphere reminiscent of designer Gio Ponti’s vibrancy and a menu crafted by Marc Vetri’s apprentice, Adam Leonti, offering dishes ranging from cacio e pepe potatoes to Calabrian tuna tartare, and agnolotti with black truffle fondue. According to the chef, they use Italy, from its northernmost points to its southern extremes, as a way to interpret the changing seasons.
One partner, Julian Black from Carbone, shares that they aim to embody the Italian concept of ‘sprezzatura’, which means effortless elegance. This philosophy is evident in every aspect of our establishment, from the attire of our staff to the management of our wine program. Furthermore, echoing the tough times Los Angeles has faced recently with wildfires, strikes, and streaming contractions, Julian Black’s son, who is also a producer for The Equalizer, expresses that Alba is similar to a movie set – a place where people come to escape reality. They hope that when guests dine at Alba, they will experience a sense of escapism, even if it’s just for the duration of their two-hour meal.
You can find this intriguing tale in the March 6 edition of The Hollywood Reporter. Consider subscribing to get more such stories!
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2025-03-07 22:24