Critic’s Notebook: At a Historic Met Gala, the Winning Looks Embraced Drama and Detail

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Just as the Met Gala was about to kick off, I shared with a friend, whom I’d been exchanging messages with, that I was feeling somewhat anxious regarding what celebrities would don this year. The theme and accompanying show — Superfine: Tailoring Black Style — signified a significant milestone for the Costume Institute, which partners with Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue, to organize the charity gala. This is the first exhibition focusing on designers of color and merely the second one dedicated to menswear (the first being Bravehearts: Men in Skirts back in 2003).

The exhibition “Superfine” draws inspiration from Monica L. Miller’s insightful book “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Shaping of Black Diasporic Identity“. This work offers a cultural perspective on Black dandyism and its key fashion icons. Andrew Bolton, the head curator at the Institute, recognized Miller’s expertise and invited her to collaborate in the creation of this exhibition.

I inquired of my friend as if seeking wisdom from an oracle, ‘Who can handle this task effectively?’ Few could, but those who grasped the task left lasting impacts.

At the event, we were encouraged to uphold the essence of Black dandyism, which meant interpreting the dress code in a way that reflected our unique selves. The standout attendees found creative ways to express themselves within these guidelines, much like the Black dandies of olden times did. They used their outfits as a canvas to blend their history and respond to the present moment. The ensembles, such as Lauryn Hill’s stunning yellow ensemble or Teyana Taylor’s intimate maroon costume, were a testament to what Iké Udé, the dandy artist and exhibition consultant, referred to as “future perfect.” These outfits exuded a visionary and forward-thinking vibe.

Traditional outfits, focusing more on tailored fit than breaking new ground in fashion trends, dominated the scene at this year’s event. Many of these ensembles were unremarkable, not causing much excitement and likely to be forgotten over time (such as Sydney Sweeney in Miu Miu and Nicole Kidman in Balenciaga). It’s interesting to note that most of these outfits were worn by white celebrities, who seemed to find it challenging to interpret this year’s theme. One notable exception was BlackPink member Lisa’s custom Louis Vuitton one-piece, which included a portrait of Rosa Parks embroidered on the crotch area, raising questions about the artist’s choice in design.

Every time, the staircase established an atmosphere for the evening, drawing in guests and viewers tuning into the Vogue livestream (wrapping up at 9 p.m., leaving some stylish attendees out) towards the surreal world designed by Raul Avila. This year’s stairs were covered with a deep blue fabric embellished with white and yellow daffodils, a creative concept brought to life by artist Cy Gavin, whose large-scale paintings possess a heavenly vibe.

The event kicked off with the appearance of the gala’s distinguished chairs: Anna Wintour, Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, and Colman Domingo. Their attire showcased the variety of styles that graced the evening. Unfortunately, LeBron James, appointed as an honorary chair, was unable to attend due to a knee injury. However, his wife, Savannah James, was present, elegantly dressed in a bespoke burgundy pinstripe suit designed by Hanifa, a label helmed by Congolese designer Anifa Mvuemba.

Wintour stuck with her traditional attire in a custom silver Louis Vuitton dress (the event’s sponsor) and a powder blue coat, while Williams, the Men’s Creative Director of Louis Vuitton, was somewhat underwhelming despite the striking double-breasted blazer adorned with 100,000 pearls. The duo showcased a more conventional, less extraordinary style and some outfits that didn’t quite hit the mark.

At the gala, Hamilton, A$AP Rocky, and Domingo emerged victorious among the group of organizers. Their fashion choices ranged from dramatic expressions of Black style to elegant homages to the enduring legacy of Black dandyism. Hamilton donned an ivory outfit designed by Grace Wales Bonner, accessorized with a beret by Stephen Jones Millinery that echoed Barkley L. Hendricks’ portraits and conveyed a narrative through its jeweled adornments – from the baobab flower on his lapel to the cowrie shells and pearls decorating his jacket’s rear. A$AP Rocky showcased a custom-designed three-piece black suit and Christian Louboutin shoes, while his hair was a spectacle in itself, braided into cornrows that encircled his head like a regal crown.

Domingo’s attire was a blend of Black queer history and personal flair. The actor from Sing Sing kick-started the evening in a stunning cobalt blue Valentino cape, reminiscent of André Leon Talley’s late outfits or those worn by church choir members. As the night progressed, Domingo shed this layer to unveil another Valentino ensemble: a double-breasted wool jacket adorned with pearls and crystals, a black neck scarf featuring hand-painted white polka dots, and wide-leg wool trousers.

As a gaming enthusiast, here’s how I might rephrase the passage in first person:

“I couldn’t help but notice the hidden charm in Hamilton’s outfit that mirrored itself in various ensembles from the night – like Jenna Ortega’s stunning Balmain dress made entirely out of metal rulers, and Olivier Rousteing’s metallic sewing machine-shaped bag and golden shirt under his broad-shouldered suit. Last year, Zendaya left everyone amazed with two unique red carpet looks at the Met Gala, but this time she opted for a more subtle approach. Collaborating with stylist Law Roach, who also styled Tyla, Jeremy Pope, Jon Batiste, Nicki Minaj, and Andre 3000, Zendaya embodied Bianca Jagger’s bridal vibe with a finely tailored cream silk suit from Louis Vuitton and an appropriate wide-brimmed hat. I can’t forget to mention Kerry Washington’s custom creation from Simkhai, featuring a deep neckline, an A-line organza skirt, mesh gloves, and a matching cream hat.

While many people remained silent, there were some standout looks during the evening that were full of drama and told their own unique stories through the people wearing them. One such example is Diana Ross’s stunning outfit by Ugo Mozie, featuring an impressive 18-foot train, on which her children and grandchildren’s names had been delicately embroidered. Another noteworthy look was Teyana Taylor’s ensemble, collaboratively designed with Academy Award-winning costume designer Ruth E. Carter.

I could discuss Taylor’s striking maroon attire – from its pinstripes to the durag hidden beneath her hat, the David Yurman ornaments on her trousers, the walking stick, and the “Harlem Rose” etched into her cloak – for hours. The way it blended Harlem’s history with the modern era, subtly hinting at its future, was incredibly captivating. Her ensemble carried a strong significance when she interviewed Ego Nwodim (in Christopher John Rogers) for Vogue, conversing with Harlem icon Dapper Dan. He wore a stylish white zoot suit adorned with the Ghanaian adinkra symbol, sankofa, which encourages us to look back to understand what lies ahead. It was truly moving to witness two Harlem legends, representing past and present, discussing their shared vision for the future.

Notable storytellers such as Whoopi Goldberg, Al Sharpton, Doja Cat, Brian Tyree Henry, Jodi Turner-Smith (dressed in an elegant burgundy Burberry suit that honored Black equestrian Selika Lazevski), and Damson Idris were also present. The latter arrived with his team removing his F1 attire, including a sparkling helmet, to unveil a sharp three-piece crimson suit by Tommy Hilfiger beneath.

Additionally, there was Janelle Monáe who teamed up with Oscar-winning costume designer Paul Tazewell (from Wicked) and Thom Browne to design a costume that manipulated time. Monáe called the style, which she sported, a “time-traveling dandy.” This outfit aligned with her Afro-futurist perspective while also incorporating sharp tailoring. The eye-catching jacket was in a striking red, white, and black pinstripe pattern that seemed to play tricks on the eyes. Monáe carried over this theme inside, where she wore a more fitted two-piece skirt-and-jacket set. She accessorized with a top hat and a playful monocle.

Yet, it might be challenging for others to surpass Rihanna or Andre 3000 who made quite an entrance. Rihanna, fashionably late and flaunting a baby bump, donned a stylish Marc Jacobs outfit consisting of a gray bustier and black long skirt. As for Andre 3000, he arrived on the carpet with a piano attached to his back, using the occasion to unveil a new project titled “7 Piano Sketches“. However, what intrigues me is the mystery of what he had in that trash bag.

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2025-05-06 09:25