Clues to TV’s Hit Sleuths Are Hidden in Their Clothing

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Four bold detectives consistently solve mysteries using unorthodox methods while also making a fashion statement – from eye-catching hats to comforting blazers. Every week, the costume designers of shows like Elsbeth, High Potential, Matlock, and Poker Face provide captivating outfit hints that contribute to creating unique, memorable characters and gripping mysteries, keeping audiences eagerly tuning in to broadcast or streaming platforms.

Elsbeth

In the intriguing case of Howcatchem, the lead character, Chicago lawyer Elsbeth Tascioni (played by Carrie Preston), employs her sharp intuition and keen insight, backed by an unexpected advantage – her lively, unpredictable personality.

In this series, the show’s costume designer Daniel Lawson points out that people, including the murderer in question, often underestimate her due to two reasons. Firstly, she tends to behave in a somewhat quirky or distracted manner. Secondly, her appearance gives an impression of being flighty as well.

Elsbeth’s vibrant mix of colorful coats, eye-catching blazers, bow-decorated blouses, and warm winter trimmings also draw inspiration from the detective guidebook of a fellow detective: Peter Falk’s Columbo. As Lawson explains, just like his iconic raincoat, it was easy to predict Elsbeth’s arrival, and it often proved irritating to those she persistently questioned. “I wanted people to spot her from afar,” says Lawson.

In response, the suspects and accomplices choose “elegant, subtly stylish” colors that are distinctively urban to project their mistaken belief in fooling Elsbeth, who appears in a dazzling array of prints and colors that seem like she’s still figuring things out according to Lawson. However, it’s clear that Elsbeth is actually quite composed and organized beneath her apparent uncertainty.

For example, Socialite Roslyn Bridwell (played by Vanessa Williams), who appears to be innocent but is actually masterminding a jewelry heist in the fourth episode of season two, is portrayed in stark black and white. Director Lawson aimed to contrast Elsbeth’s chaotic mix of patterns, colors, and silly hats with the sleek and refined Vanessa. In addition, Elsbeth’s metallic pink brocade Valentino blazer, worn as she pursues Roslyn, symbolizes the week’s case, suggesting that she sees herself as a jewel herself, according to Lawson.

In season two’s fourth episode, Roslyn Bridwell (played by Vanessa Williams), who is actually planning a jewelry heist, is shown in black and white to make it seem like she’s innocent. The director wanted to show the contrast between Elsbeth’s messy outfits and Vanessa’s elegant style. Elsbeth even wears a shiny pink Valentino blazer during the case, suggesting that she thinks of herself as a valuable jewel.

High Potential

Kaitlin Olson’s character, Morgan Gillory (who was previously a janitor), now uses her remarkable 160 IQ to swiftly unravel intricate and often concurrent mysteries as a consultant for the LAPD. Her unique fashion sense, characterized by vibrant animal prints, eye-catching patterns, and extravagant faux-fur coats, reflects her constant mental activity in solving problems and thinking abstractly.

According to costume designer Sandra Burns, Morgan’s facial expressions suggest she is thoroughly examining and pondering things, even when it comes to her personal clothing choices. Her outfits reflect the internal struggle between disorder and organization that Morgan experiences in her mind. (It was Samantha Hawkins who designed the pilot’s costumes.)

Morgan’s bold choice of outfits with mini skirts and striking heels, unsuitable for trekking through a dangerous survival game, simultaneously challenges those who question her capabilities.

According to Burns, she’s aware that people are jumping to conclusions, but it doesn’t bother her one bit. She’s like a fish out of water, seemingly out of place and dressed unconventionally for the situations at hand. However, she consistently proves them all wrong. People underestimate her abilities, thinking she can’t handle certain tasks due to her attire, such as walking in those boots or working effectively in miniskirts. But they’re wrong. She can, and she does!

Through the thrilling cliffhanger at the end of the season, Morgan’s supervisor, Lieutenant Selena Soto (played by Judy Reyes), and fellow officer, Detective Daphne Forrester (portrayed by Javicia Leslie), have taken a liking to her unconventional tactics. They express this acceptance by adding more vibrant colors and intricate patterns to their work attire. As Burns explains, “There’s a notion that Morgan wields this power. Rather than her team shaping her, it is she who shapes the team in the end.

Matlock

As a seasoned gamer, I’d say: I donned the disguise of Matty Matlock, a thrifty widow grandma, to infiltrate a bustling Manhattan law firm, seeking justice for my deceased daughter. My wardrobe was carefully selected from department stores, featuring timeless blazers in warm tones, demurely patterned blouses, and modest trousers – all aimed at blending in as unassumingly as possible.

Costume designer Hope Hanafin notes that there’s a fitting sweetness mirroring the character portrayed by Matty, whose understated wardrobe effectively hides her secretive actions as she discreetly investigates the person who hid incriminating documents related to opioids in the market. This concealment could have prevented the overdose of her own daughter. (Laura Montgomery designed the pilot.)

Madeline and her alter ego Matty share similar traits of unyielding persistence and determination. Matty proves to be an invaluable team member for the powerful lawyer Olympia (played by Skye P. Marshall), who is both a key player and a suspect. Matty skillfully coaxes crucial information from witnesses, often deceptively employing the innocent-elder guise that they find hard to resist. Hanafin describes Matty as having a more boisterous and straightforward nature. The charming modesty of her attire helps people feel at ease, preventing her from appearing too confrontational.

In “Pregame,” Matty partners with her 12-year-old grandson Alfie (Aaron D. Harris) to gather vital evidence for their family’s investigation. At the same time, she successfully clears Olympia’s client by identifying the actual perpetrator. Matty’s Easter egg blue Lafayette 148 blazer and her MNG paw-print shirt work as a secret agent, while her Clarks flats help her perform a misleading dance step and move swiftly and quietly.

Or:

In “Pregame,” Matty collaborates with her grandson Alfie (Aaron D. Harris) to gather evidence for their family’s investigation. She also manages to clear Olympia’s client by finding the true culprit. Matty’s Easter egg blue Lafayette 148 blazer and whimsical paw-print shirt from MNG serve a dual purpose, while her Clarks flats allow her to move stealthily and quickly during deceptive moves.

Adds Hanafin, “She can both fade into the background and take center court when required.”

Poker Face

In the second season, the character Charlie Cale, who has an uncanny ability to detect lies and often finds herself solving mysteries unintentionally (played by Natasha Lyonne), continues her nomadic lifestyle in a 1969 Plymouth Barracuda. The back seat serves as her makeshift wardrobe, housing her casual yet carefree collection of jeans, vintage graphic t-shirts, and Southwestern trinkets.

Costume designer Leah Katznelson, stepping in for Trayce Gigi Field from season one, notes a consistent style and comfort in how she dresses her characters. Katznelson aimed to intensify Charlie’s neo-noir ’70s aesthetic as a tribute to creator Rian Johnson’s homages to Robert Altman’s “The Long Goodbye” and the impactful detective series of the era, such as “Columbo” and “The Rockford Files.” For guidance, Katznelson looked to the visual style of iconic figures like Jane Birkin, Serge Gainsbourg, and their daughter, Charlotte, along with some obscure film references from that decade provided by Lyonne.

Along the highway, Charlie takes on various temporary tasks and weekly puzzles to unravel. Her bohemian clothing collection allows her to blend effortlessly into each fresh setting while preserving her distinctive fashion sense. In the second season’s opening episode, Charlie, adorned in a retro Harley-Davidson shirt and striped bell-bottom pants, discovers the wrongdoings of a group of quintuplets portrayed by the leather-clad Cynthia Erivo. “The secret lies in creating powerful visual elements,” explains Katznelson, who dressed Charlie primarily in vintage pieces (around 70%).

As a fan, I wonder if Charlie is the one who prepares our lunches, or perhaps the one who keeps track of balls during matches, or even the one who manages our parking lots? Katznelson shares this curiosity while also transforming Charlie’s work uniforms into stylish ’70s fits that perfectly suit her versatile escapades. It seems it’s all about discovering what job best embodies the essence of Charlie.

Originally featured in the independent May issue of The Hollywood Reporter’s magazine, you can get it by subscribing here. (Click the link to subscribe)

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2025-05-28 21:25