Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA

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Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA

As a fan of fashion history, I am absolutely captivated by the connection between Catherine Deneuve’s iconic role in “Belle du Jour” and Yves Saint Laurent’s groundbreaking designs. The way their careers intertwined is a testament to the transformative power of art and collaboration.

In Luis Buñuel’s 1967 film “Belle du Jour,” Pierre, a blind and paralyzed man, resides in his elegantly furnished Paris apartment. He is cared for by Séverine, a disengaged housewife portrayed by Catherine Deneuve. This role brought Deneuve international recognition and secured her status as France’s preeminent actress for decades. In the film, Deneuve dons a chic little black dress with a rounded white collar and cuffs. Designed by Yves Saint Laurent, this dress is an adaptation of Coco Chanel’s revolutionary design that transformed women’s fashion. This iconic piece can now be observed up close at “Yves Saint Laurent: Line and Expression,” on display at the Orange County Museum of Art in Costa Mesa through October 27th.

“Gaël Mamine, a co-curator of the exhibition now running at Marrakech’s Musée Yves Saint Laurent, observed that they hit it off right away. In her films, he was the one responsible for creating all the couture outfits for her. He dressed her not only for public appearances but also in private life and on screen.”

The exhibit showcases a captivating selection from the extensive body of work by the renowned French fashion designer, featuring photographs, jewelry, and haute couture pieces dating back to 1963 and continuing until 2002. Visitors can look forward to exploring 46 stunning outfits, but that’s not all – the exhibit also offers a unique opportunity to delve into Saint Laurent’s creative process through his expressive line illustrations. Sketched with pencils on paper, these illustrations beautifully convey the spirit of his fabric choices, from delicate chiffon and shimmering silk to rugged tweed and luscious velvet.

Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA

Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA

“For the first time in this production, we feature an extensive collection of Yves Saint Laurent sketches spanning from the 1960s to 2002,” shares exhibition designer Claudia Huidobro. “My intention was to highlight this theme as the foundation of the entire exhibit.”

From a young age, Saint Laurent’s sketches stood out as exceptional, leading him to secure a position at Christian Dior in 1955 when he was just 19 years old. Impressed by his talent, Dior took him under his wing and eventually passed the mantle to him upon his death in 1957. Saint Laurent’s spring collection of 1958 became a global sensation with the introduction of the trapeze dress. However, his daring decision to lower hemlines in his autumn show raised concerns about his longevity as a designer.

Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA
Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA

“According to Huidobro, it took great effort for him to develop his unique design approach. He drew upon the techniques he had acquired at Dior but continued striving to express himself distinctly through his clothing creations.”

Following his dismissal from Dior, a mandatory military service stint led him to spend time in a mental health institution. After being discharged, he appeared to be past his prime, but his industrialist companion, Pierre Bergé, inspired him to establish his own label. Yves Saint Laurent debuted in 1962, marking the arrival of a fresh wave of French fashion.

From ’62 to ’65, when he unveiled his designs, he stuck to the classic methods of working at Dior. However, there was a fresh edge to it that perfectly encapsulated the zeitgeist. But once he experimented with jersey dresses and incorporated art references, specifically from artists like Mondrian and pop art, I believe he began to carve out his unique identity distinct from Dior.

Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA

Drawing inspiration from the artworks of Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, and Piet Mondrian, characterized by their use of quadrilateral forms and primary colors, Yves Saint Laurent stayed ahead of the trend. However, his vision wasn’t limited to Western art; he also incorporated influences from Asian and African cultures into his designs.

Mamine describes Saint Laurent’s 1967 collection as featuring African textiles and motifs, along with hairstyles reminiscent of African sculpture. He explains that Saint Laurent would often travel to Morocco during the winter to draw inspiration for his designs from both the local African art he collected and the North African culture surrounding him. Essentially, Saint Laurent drew influence from a global perspective, including African art and pop culture.

Throughout his illustrious fashion career, Yves Saint Laurent shut down his label in 2002 and passed away six years later due to brain cancer. Notable figures such as Deneuve, former French First Lady Bernadette Chirac, the former Empress of Iran Farah Pahlavi, and French President Sarkozy and his wife Carla Bruni attended his funeral. A few days prior, Saint Laurent and Bergé had entered into a same-sex civil union. During the service, Bergé reminisced, “I will never forget what you’ve given me, and one day I will reunite with you under the Moroccan palms.”

The Orange County Museum of Art is located at 3333 Avenue of the Arts in Costa Mesa, California.

Catherine Deneuve’s Black-and-White YSL Dress From ‘Belle De Jour’ on Exhibit at OCMA

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2024-07-14 00:54