COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS FW25: “To Hell With War”

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At Paris Fashion Week 2025, I stood on the second floor of an industrial building in the 9th arrondissement, feeling the pulse of Rei Kawakubo’s powerful message for COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS Fall/Winter collection. “Forget war,” she declared, challenging traditional soldier uniforms with a bold, avant-garde twist that was distinctly CdG.

In this fashion mode, Kawakubo’s design notes were concise: “Dissecting military emblems like uniform shapes, color, camouflage patterns, helmets.” The COMME des GARÇONS team showcased field jackets, officer coats with defined shoulders, large-pocketed vests, and practical trousers in traditional military shades of green, grey, and brown.

Although they shared a similar appearance, each group had its own distinct character. One ensemble featured shiny brass buttons on an army green coat paired with a relaxed, plant-covered shirt in the same shade, while another displayed vibrant color-blocked panels that transformed a formal double-breasted jacket into a playful, kaleidoscopic accessory.

Consistently, the common element in this assortment was the type of headgear. Some military hats boasted lavish floral adornments, while others were swathed in a satiny fabric, and still others featured textiles that spanned the entirety of the wearer’s skull.

At the conclusion of the fashion show, when all models walked in sync around the runway, the structured design philosophy of Kawakubo seemed stronger and more resilient – a feeling that was hard not to associate with the turbulent news stories from around the globe.

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2025-01-26 20:26