As a fashion journalist with a deep appreciation for heritage brands and their rich histories, I find myself utterly captivated by the story of Dunhill. Having grown up in England, I’ve always been drawn to the timeless elegance and classicism that defines British style. So, when I came across this article about Dunhill’s new collection and its connection to iconic movie stars like Carrie Grant, David Niven, and the Duke of Windsor, I was instantly intrigued.
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Last year, Simon Holloway assumed the role of creative director at Dunhill, not just leading the team but also preserving its 130-year-old heritage. Initially established to provide essentials for early motorists in the late 1800s, this British label is now renowned for its classicism and fine craftsmanship, from premium leather goods to their iconic navy blazers. Throughout history, it has boasted an impressive roster of high-profile supporters, such as Frank Sinatra, Truman Capote, and the Duke of Windsor.
After a break of four years, Dunhill, a brand under Richemont’s umbrella, made its comeback at London Fashion Week in February with a sophisticated 41-piece Fall/Winter 2024 collection presented at the Duveen Wing of the National Portrait Gallery, which has undergone recent renovation. Holloway shared with The Hollywood Reporter that his goal for this first show was to convey his perspective for the label: a narrative of enduring tradition adapted for contemporary times.
Instead of transforming the presentation into a grand, polished runway event, we opted for a more intimate salon setup at Chateau Marmont, Los Angeles, during an interview with Holloway. Our intention was to make attendees feel closely connected to the clothes and create an immersive experience. The casting was diverse, encompassing various ethnicities, age groups, and older male models seldom seen on runways recently. This choice aimed to add character and depth to the presentation, attracting celebrities like Phil Dunster from Ted Lasso, Hu Bing, and Archie Renaux for the Fall Winter 2024 event.
Over European royal portraits, Dunhill’s models wore updated versions of Holloway’s chosen pieces from the brand’s catalog. A traditional leather car coat was transformed with French plunge leather and luxurious camel hair lining. Sturdy tweed jackets were redesigned using more comfortable cashmere wool blends from Scotland. Additionally, Holloway added her personal touches such as monogrammed V-neck sweaters and herringbone trousers. Dunhill’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection is now available at dunhill.com, Dunhill in New York City, Neiman Marcus stores (in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Chicago), and Mr. Porter.
“Holloway points out some items in the Chateau’s bungalows, all in toffee-hued leather. This served as the foundation for our color scheme. We’ve updated the fits and added a casual touch while maintaining an elegant feel. There are numerous unseen enhancements in these clothes, such as the lightweight canvas and expert tailoring or the refined finish on the leather garments.”
Bridging heritage with innovation is core to the Dunhill story, which started in 1893 when eponymous founder Alfred Dunhill inherited his father’s saddlery. It was a watershed moment in technological history, when horse-drawn transportation gave way to prototypical motorcars — and Dunhill responded by shifting from equestrian apparel to pieces meant for motorists.
Alfred anticipated the trend and transformed Dunhill from a car company into a provider of various non-automobile items. Holloway adds, “He offered tweed coats, creative leather jackets, and even dashboard accessories like clocks, voltmeters, and humorous trinkets.”
In truth, Dunhill’s identity went beyond just functional elegance, thanks to its founder’s unique character and distinctively British humor. A notable emblem of this was the house’s signature hood ornament – a dog named Tweenie, who playfully sticks out his tongue in defiance. According to tradition, the mischievous hound, with its disrespectful gesture towards authority, originated from Alfred’s own disdain for law enforcement.
I’m a huge fan of Alfred Dunhill’s story. He was among the earliest individuals in England to receive a speeding fine, and boy, did he despise the law enforcement for it! This intriguing heritage we get to savor is a blend of two distinct sides. On one hand, his obsession with luxury was unmatched – he crafted items of the highest caliber. But on the other, there was this quirky and undeniably British eccentricity that added a captivating twist to his legacy.
As a devoted fan, I’ve come to appreciate Holloway’s unique blend of humor and luxury in the brand’s identity. While delving into its rich history, I was struck by an undeniable sense of old Hollywood glamour. The latest collection includes a double-breasted cashmere blazer with matching silver flannel driving gloves that remind me of James Bond himself. Moving on, I peeked into an armoire and was amazed to find two iconic pieces from Dunhill’s archives, now in Los Angeles for a special unveiling: a dinner suit once worn by the legendary Frank Sinatra and a tuxedo jacket that belonged to Truman Capote during his famous 1960s Black and White Ball.
“Dunhill is known for its allure of English elegance, perhaps due to its iconic smoking accessories,” Holloway notes. “I’m fond of the thought that Hollywood stars truly embodied their glamour. Our inspiration came from images of Carrie Grant, David Niven, and the Duke of Windsor, who was a loyal Dunhill customer with an unparalleled collection of quintessentially English attire.”
As a dedicated gamer, I truly value the importance of building strong relationships with artisans when it comes to creating a luxury gaming experience. Currently, my game studio works with around fifteen suppliers, each bringing unique skills to the table – from feather and button makers to expert shoemakers and hatmakers. Embroidery, a crucial element in enhancing the visual appeal of our games, is skillfully crafted by the regimental embroiderers based in London, renowned primarily for their military uniform work.
“Many connections with fabric mills hold significant value for me, especially for collections that emphasize timelessness and elegance. As textile designers, the foundation is the fabric itself. Consequently, every detail is traced back to its origin, adding an element of passion for craftsmanship.”
In honor of the past, Holloway acknowledges that Dunhill must attract new customers for its future success. On one hand, this involves appealing to younger generations who are rediscovering the appeal of classic tailoring, as evidenced by the revival of traditional men’s shops in London. Simultaneously, it means expanding Dunhill’s reach in significant global markets. Holloway shares that the bespoke service based in London frequently sends their tailors to countries such as the United States, China, and Japan.
“Dunhill was uniquely positioned as a quintessentially English brand with global appeal from its early beginnings,” Holloway explains, highlighting that Dunhill had expanded to New York and Paris as far back as the 1920s. “This international character is an essential aspect I plan to preserve during the ongoing revitalization of Dunhill.”
As someone who grew up in the era of relative luxury and niche pursuits, I have always been captivated by the iconic Dunhill motoring products of yesteryear. Their rare availability today transports me back to a time when driving was not just a means of transportation but a cherished experience.
“He explains that the luxury market is shifting towards items that are unique and inaccessible to others. Remarkably, Dunhill continues to produce such exclusives. As for the future, possibilities may open up for customized offerings catering to individual clients.”
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2024-07-18 22:56