How Hollywood Does Nashville: Where to Eat, Stay, and Play as Music City Hosts CMAs

by

As a seasoned traveler and music enthusiast with roots deeply entrenched in the heart of Nashville, I can confidently say that Music City has stolen my heart. From its vibrant energy and infectious spirit to its rich history and unparalleled hospitality, it’s no wonder so many celebrities and everyday folks are flocking to this city like moths to a neon-lit honky-tonk bar.

This week, Nashville is basking in even more glory than usual due to the 58th Country Music Association Awards taking place at the Bridgestone Arena on November 20 and being broadcast live on ABC. It’s no secret that Music City is thriving, with its skyline, dotted with tower cranes, a constant reminder of its growth. Some even joke that these cranes have become the new state bird. The popularity of the TV series Nashville in 2012 marked a renaissance period for Nashville, and its continuous expansion – around 66 people moving to Nashville each day in 2023 – mirrors the transformation of music into a significant economic force that has broadened into sectors like healthcare, insurance, and more.

According to Bob Raines, Executive Director of the Tennessee Entertainment Commission, we’re more about a group of creative minds rather than a cluster of large corporations. Despite the presence of big names like WME, UTA, CAA, record labels, and digital media companies, Nashville remains a city with a small-town feel. The commission estimates that the entertainment industry contributed around $6.4 billion to Tennessee’s economy in 2023, with music being the main source of income. However, this isn’t like Atlanta’s “Y’allywood”; film and TV are also becoming significant contributors as many California-based companies seek genuine content.

In a state generally known for conservative values, Nashville, identified by its blue hue, finds itself navigating between modernity and heritage, a conflict that gained prominence this year in light of nationwide debates about gatekeeping and evolving perspectives within the country music scene. The captivating, genre-blending tracks on Beyoncé’s Act II: Cowboy Carter delve deeply into these issues, earning it a leading position with 11 Grammy nominations, following its previous snub by the Country Music Association Awards committee. Furthermore, Tennessee’s recent passage of laws against LGBTQIA+ rights and supporting gun ownership has not noticeably slowed the influx of West and East Coast transplants to Nashville, a trend that picked up during the pandemic as more Hollywood celebrities are drawn to the city – be it for dining, entertainment, or house-hunting.

Eat and Drink

Bold-spirited diners are presented with a vast array of options due to the dynamic nature of today’s culinary landscape. At Henrietta Red in Germantown, the raw bar and restaurant exude a unique blend of homely and refined ambiance, thanks to chef/co-owner Julia Sullivan’s menu. This ambiance has also attracted celebrities such as Garth Brooks, Trisha Yearwood, Keith Urban, and Nicole Kidman for double dates, along with other diners like Kacey Musgraves, Jon Hamm, Laura Dern, and Brandi Carlisle. Pinewood offers a variety of experiences, blending vintage bowling lanes with a versatile food and drink program that transitions smoothly from morning coffee bars featuring local roaster Crema to evening cocktails, and a full menu throughout the day. The esteemed James Beard Foundation-honored meat-and-three Arnold’s Country Kitchen has resumed operations after a brief hiatus. Silver Sands Cafe continues its classic legacy, now in its 70th year under the devoted care of second-generation owner Sophia Vaughn. At Butter Milk Ranch in the 12 South district, expect tough decisions when it comes to choosing between savory and sweet dishes during the daytime. It’s advisable to order a mix, pairing substantial meals with standout items such as Alyssa Gangeri’s memorable biscuits, skillfully crafted croissants, and brown butter beignets.

In the vibrant neighborhood of East Nashville, where indie spirit flourishes, Bad Idea stands out as an exemplary fusion of architectural revamping and culinary creativity. Design Object’s conversion of the old church sanctuary offers a striking yet cozy ambiance that complements perfectly chef Colby Rasavong’s Lao-inspired dishes. These delectable creations beautifully blend local Tennessee traditions and ingredients, while owner and sommelier Alex Burch’s diverse wine collection from various geographical locations adds an eclectic touch. The central bar under a beautiful stained-glass canopy is the perfect spot for enjoying a late-night snack.

Leina Horii and Brian Lea, who previously worked alongside Ludovic Lefebvre and Jordan Kahn in Los Angeles and were recognized as Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 2024, offer their unique take on comfort Japanese cuisine at the lunch-only eatery called Kisser, nestled within the Highland Yards development. Notably, Gwyneth Paltrow visited for a meal during an Easter weekend trip to Nashville, where her daughter Apple attends Vanderbilt University. Horii expresses, “This has been an exceptionally enriching journey, one we never imagined was within reach until we relocated to Nashville.” The duo’s decision to establish their restaurant group’s first venture outside of Brooklyn in the Frankies complex, located further east in East Nashville, includes Frankies 925 Sputino, a casual pizzeria, and Bottega marketplace.

Sean Brock, a chef who has won the James Beard Award, relocated from Charleston to Nashville, which resulted in the opening of Joyland and Audrey (he recently closed Bar Continental and June restaurant). For food enthusiasts, must-visit spots in Nashville include Locust, City House, Rolf and Daughters, the Catbird Seat, and Bastion. Notable eateries that draw crowds are Prince’s Hot Chicken and Hattie B’s, both famous for their unique Nashville food specialties with multiple locations. To complete a trip to the South, many people feel it is essential to savor some barbecue. This can be best achieved at Peg Leg Porker, Bringle’s Smoking Oasis, and Martin’s, which have numerous outlets.

Where to Stay

Since 1910, the Hermitage Hotel in Nashville has been recognized as a grand matriarch among hotels (located at 231 6th Ave. N., with nightly rates starting from $599). The underground restaurant, Drusie & Darr, is led by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and offers his inventive twist on fried chicken. Throughout the last century, much of the Hermitage has been modernized, but its distinctive Art Deco-style men’s room with green-and-black tile remains an untouched historical landmark. The bar and banquettes are ideal for both celebratory dining experiences and discreet power broker meetings.

At first glance, The Joseph (located at 401 Korean Veterans Blvd., with nightly rates starting from $359) may seem like just another glitzy hotel tower in the downtown area. However, upon entering, this SoBro (south of Broadway) building unfolds a more intricate narrative. Boasting over 1,100 pieces of artwork displayed in its public areas and guest rooms, it subtly conveys the Pizzuti family’s Italian heritage and celebrates its local roots. Intricate carpet designs reminiscent of Florentine marbling techniques, drawer pulls modeled after textured stereo equipment knobs, and embroidered throw pillows inspired by Nudie Cohn’s iconic embellished “Nudie suits” are just a few examples of the subtle tributes inside. The Four Walls speakeasy takes Nashville-inspired decor to new heights with its eye-catching fringe ceiling, offering a unique blend of style and sophistication.

The quiet luxury at the Four Seasons Hotel and Private Residences (100 Demonbreun St., nightly rates from about $440) offers a welcome reprieve from downtown revelry. Four Seasons brand loyalists can expect top-tier service and smartly tailored interior design featuring regionally sourced materials and original art. For musically-inclined guests, instrument loans and access to Gibson Garage tours can be arranged, and a partnership with Songwriter City brings performances by Nashville’s leading songwriters such as Highwomen supergroup member Natalie Hemby and Songwriters Hall of Fame inductee Liz Rose into the comfort of a hotel suite. The sleek lounge and restaurant Mimo is perfectly located for a refreshing cocktail break or a modern Italian feast near the waterfront.  

Located amidst renovated warehouses, the neighborhood of Wedgewood Houston, boasts prominent entertainment entities such as Live Nation and Apple Music. The vibrant heart of this area is Soho House Nashville (500 Houston St.), featuring a spacious pool, well-landscaped outdoor spaces, a cozy theater, and a gym bathed in natural light. Just nearby, the chic co-working space, The Malin, provides an apt counterpart to Soho House. The bespoke leather atelier Savas, a favorite among dedicated clients, attracts many, particularly those who have visited their Melrose Avenue L.A. branch and wish to explore the home base.

In contrast to other areas of Nashville, East Nashville offers a greater variety of unique accommodations. The stylish 23-room Dive Motel & Swim Club (located at 1414 Dickerson Pike, with nightly rates starting from $295), and the adult-only Urban Cowboy Nashville (at 1603 Woodland St., with rates from $290) have recently been introduced. The latter blends rustic elegance with maximalism into a nineteenth-century Victorian brick mansion, complete with inviting outdoor social spaces. Moreover, The Drift (10 Interstate Dr., with nightly rates starting from $179), known for its tranquil, earthy design and tech-savvy approach, has now opened in an early 1960s building within the East Bank area. This establishment also boasts properties in San Jose del Cabo, Santa Barbara, and Palm Springs.

Established in 2022, Southall Farm & Inn (located at 2200 Osage Loop with nightly rates starting from $599) lies approximately a 30-minute drive away but offers an idyllic escape from urban life on its sprawling 325-acre property near Franklin. The property’s extensive collection of local art and tastefully rustic yet luxurious decor create an eco-luxury haven.

What to Do

The abundance of live music becomes evident as soon as you disembark at Nashville International Airport. With the rejuvenation of the Honky Tonk Highway, many renowned artists in country music have bestowed their names on multi-story clubs and eateries that line Lower Broadway closely together. Luke Combs just added his name to the list with Category 10 this month, while JBJ’s opened its doors in June, following Jon Bon Jovi. Garth Brooks’ Friends in Low Places honky-tonk, a partnership between Strategic Hospitality, also started operating in June. Establishments like Robert’s Western World and Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge still cater to locals who dare to face the crowds of tourists and bachelorette parties. More intimate venues include the bluegrass-focused Station Inn, the versatile Eastside Bowl, the Blue Room at Jack White’s Third Man Records, and the legendary Bluebird Cafe, where Taylor Swift and Faith Hill have been spotted discovering upcoming talent.

1) Attending a concert at the Ryman Auditorium, often referred to as the “Mother Church of Country Music,” which dates back to 1892, is a must-do on any music enthusiast’s list. The post-1974 location of the Grand Ole Opry makes the journey from downtown worthwhile due to the possibility of unexpected guest appearances during the revered broadcast of the WSM radio revue. Spending hours in the numerous galleries within the Country Music Hall of Fame is captivating, with exhibits like “Western Edge: The Roots and Reverberations of Los Angeles Country-Rock,” an installation running through May 2025, delving into the connection between Nashville and Southern California through artists such as the Eagles, Gram Parsons, Linda Ronstadt, Dwight Yoakam, and Los Lobos.

The National Museum of African American Music skillfully blends interactive multimedia displays with physical artifacts to honor various significant themes, including the underestimated impact of Black musicians on the evolution of American country music. Attending the Nashville Symphony’s performance at the modern Schermerhorn Symphony Center downtown is a must-have local encounter, as well as enjoying a Nashville SC soccer game at the cutting-edge, 30,000-seat GEODIS Park, where notable fans like Nashville native Reese Witherspoon (who is a part-owner of the team) can be found.

12 South, a pedestrian-friendly district in a sprawling auto-centric city, boasts an appealing charm for walkers. The renowned Draper James flagship by Reese Witherspoon is situated just a few blocks from White’s Mercantile, a lifestyle boutique established by country music icon Holly Williams (granddaughter of Hank Williams and daughter of Hank Jr.) in a refurbished gas station. Ranger Station, famous for partnerships with founders Steve and Jordan Soderholm’s musical friends like Noah Kahan, offers apothecary goods at this multi-sensorial store and workshop. Imogene + Willie jeans, whose story began at their 12 South workshop and retail outlet, gained popularity through endorsements by celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow and Sheryl Crow.

So you want to move to Nashville…

Chris Cortazzo, usually linked with Malibu properties, enthusiastically expresses his affection for the Four Seasons Nashville penthouse and a nearby 150-acre farm he intends to transform into an animal sanctuary. The real estate market in this area has been steadily rising, as evidenced by a 3% increase in home closings from February 2023 to February 2024, according to Greater Nashville Realtors. Additionally, the median sales prices for residential single-family homes and condominiums have climbed to $478,870 and $339,990 respectively. Cortazzo appreciates both the vibrant downtown scene and the enchanting farmlands surrounding the city, noting that the latter embodies Nashville’s unique charm (it seems even Taylor Swift’s real estate holdings are diversified here).

Distinguished personalities such as Keith Urban, Nicole Kidman, Justin Timberlake, Jessica Biel, Brad Paisley, Kristin Cavallari, and Billy Ray Cyrus, among others, have made the peaceful town of Franklin in Williamson County their home. This tranquil atmosphere is due to a laid-back policy that discourages harassment. For instance, Chris Stapleton gains brownie points as a helpful husband by working at Tennessee Turquoise, his wife Morgane’s jewelry store. Surrounding areas like Brentwood and Belle Meade, where a $32 million property sale recently broke the residential real estate record in Tennessee, also attract residents drawn to the beautiful rolling hills and peaceful surroundings. As Cortazzo explains, “Here, no one is bothered, everyone is kind.” Furthermore, the lack of state tax could be another appealing factor.

Read More

2024-11-18 22:57