As a fashion enthusiast who has followed Sergio Hudson’s journey from the beginning, I must say his designs have truly come a long way. From the luxurious formuminous satin to the nubby tweed textures, his collection exudes elegance and sophistication that resonates with powerful women across various fields.
Six weeks into her unexpected ascension atop the Democratic ticket, Vice President Kamala Harris has not only energized her party ahead of the November 5 presidential election, but also a popular sentiment at the core of her campaign – joy – is now resonating with designers showcasing their Spring 2025 collections in New York this week. In contrast, if President Joe Biden hadn’t stepped down from his challenge against former President Donald Trump – due to the Democratic incumbent trailing behind the Republican nominee in polls – New York Fashion Week would have had a noticeably different atmosphere. Designer Prabal Gurung expressed his feelings about the first half of 2024, stating, “I was feeling quite disheartened; I remember thinking, is this the America I aspired to?” as he spoke with The Hollywood Reporter prior to the unveiling of his collection on Saturday.
Months prior, Gurung traveled to his homeland Nepal to spend time with family and friends, celebrate the vibrant Hindu festival Holi marking the arrival of spring, and immerse himself in themes of color and liberation. As the designer explained, “Holi symbolizes a sense of carefree abandon and hope; we don’t have enemies, only fun.” With Harris announcing his candidacy for the Democratic presidency, these ideas took on new intensity, prompting a swift shift towards an exuberant optimism in Gurung’s designs. “This is why I came to America,” said Gurung, who donned a ‘VOTE’ T-shirt of his own creation during the finale. “The pursuit of impossible dreams brought me here, and this collection exemplifies that joy has become my closest companion.” In fact, Gurung admitted that he wouldn’t have created this collection before July 21st. However, now? The essence of joy has become an integral part of his design process.
Color served as the foundation for Gurung’s spring collection, featuring soft, worn-out hues like pastel blues and pinks, as well as a striking combination of red and pink on a strapless peplum gown with a gathered skirt. Gold metallics were also utilized effectively, earning the label “winner’s gold.” This could potentially hint at some of these designs making an appearance on the upcoming Emmy Awards red carpet. Fabrics, details, and one specific print were crucial elements, Gurung shared: “I used a lot of cottons, linens, and draped jersey, and you’ll notice hand-pleating because I wanted the craftsmanship to shine. There’s also this one print inspired by Kamala, which means lotus in Sanskrit, so it’s a splatter print reminiscent of the lotus flower. I decided to take risks and have fun with this design.
The same applied to the location of the show. For over a decade after moving to the U.S. from Nepal, Gurung had dreamt about the distinctive archways of the David N. Dinkins Manhattan Municipal Building, built in 1914 and located at 1 Centre Street, serving as an ideal stage for his runway show. This season, his bold spirit led him to host his label’s event right under those arches. An additional advantage was a gentle breeze flowing through the arches, which accentuated the flowing elements of his designs beautifully.
Gurung requested Chloe Flower, a composer and musician, to direct a live orchestra during the performance. In response, Flower recruited musicians from the Manhattan School of Music Pre-College, where she had studied as well. Flower stated to THR that since she and Gurung are old friends, she aimed to create a blend of classical pieces that would harmonize with his work. Additionally, she expressed that her role as conductor was purposeful. “Gurung has always been about empowering women,” she said, “so I knew it was crucial for him to have a woman leading the orchestra during his show. Even today, conductors are still predominantly male, but music can inspire hope and transcend cultural and political barriers.
In the end, everything came together seamlessly – planned and spontaneous elements alike – as stated by Broadway producer Jordan Roth from his front-row seat. “Prabal consistently delivers a romantic dream that also pays tribute to the city,” he explained. “We stepped into this magnificent setting, complete with an impressive arch, followed by the orchestra striking up its music, and just when we needed it, the wind blew in synchronization. The breathtaking outfits, full of structure, fluidity, and romance, then appeared, creating a truly enchanting scene.” This combination resulted in a memorable, magical moment.
On a Saturday night in Uptown, designer Sergio Hudson shared his journey of transforming his creative slump during the first part of the year into a collection that exuded both style and cheerfulness. He drew inspiration for this line from one of his favorite campy films, “Valley of the Dolls.” Backstage before the show, he told THR, “The design is filled with pastel colors, and the soundtrack features my favorite jazz music from the ’60s, including Nancy Wilson, Ella Fitzgerald, and Dinah Washington. Their songs simply bring me happiness. I almost played Nancy Wilson’s ‘The Good Life’ non-stop while working on this collection.
Similar to Gurung, Hudson has designed numerous suits worn by the vice president during the last four years, including the stunning purple outfit donned by Michelle Obama at her final inauguration. Seeing Harris rise to the presidency in the 2024 race served as a source of inspiration for Hudson, both on a personal and professional level. “Witnessing that moment unfold from an outside perspective, while knowing what a wonderful person she is and how deeply she cares for this country, brings me great joy,” Hudson shared. “Regardless of political leanings, when someone genuinely loves their country and desires to help its people, it’s evident. And as a father of three daughters, it holds even greater significance for me. The past month has truly been a boost for me.
Fashion expert Zerina Akers remarked during an August conversation that Hudson has a knack for tailoring suits. On Saturday, she sat alongside Hudson’s client and “Ghosts” star Danielle Pinnock, elegantly dressed in a red dress by the designer, to witness the suits and other designs Hudson created for Spring 2025. The collection was characterized by soft pastel tones of lilac and yellow, but it was the clever combination of fabrics and textures that truly stole the show – the juxtaposition of smooth matte silk crepe with a radiant satin or the rough tweed paired with a polished knit. Hudson’s red-carpet gowns also impressed, featuring a stunning lavender sequined number with an impressive low back.
Could it be possible for us to spot that dress, or any other piece from this collection, gracing the red carpet at this Sunday’s Emmy Awards? That’s what Hudson is hoping for. “Red-carpet fashion has been our making,” said the designer, who has dressed stars such as Kerry Washington, Rachel Zegler, Ariana DeBose, and Rachel Brosnahan for various events. “For an independent brand, having your clothes worn by someone of influence is essentially free advertising, and it’s transformed the way industry professionals perceive us. In the past, we were at the mercy of stores or editors, but now, the public has the power to drive the process because they can see Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, or Michelle Obama wearing your designs, and then the stores must approach us, as customers are demanding ‘I want this person’s clothing.’
Supporters of Hudson also count among them some influential female figures in television journalism. Joy Reid, MSNBC anchor and host of “The ReidOut”, expressed her admiration for Sergio saying, “I appreciate Sergio not only as a person but as a human being, he’s genuinely passionate about his work – and let’s not forget the fashion! He has an exceptional knack for making women look powerful yet feminine, striking a perfect balance between strength and grace. Moreover, I admire how skillfully he plays with colors and fits.
Sunny Hostin, an attorney and co-host on The View, concurred. “He empowers me,” she shared with THR. “He makes me feel attractive, self-assured, and capable. Plus, his suits are top-notch. That’s why I believe Jill Biden, our former first lady Michelle Obama, and potentially the next U.S. president have all worn them. His suits give you a sense of strength – my favorite is the white suit he designed for me when I interviewed our current vice president.
As Kamala Harris potentially ascends to a position of great global influence, debates about her personal style have emerged, with many men in presidential roles historically escaping such scrutiny beyond notable exceptions like President Obama’s controversial tan suit in 2014. Reid expressed, “I can’t help but Google and text my friends to find out what Jill Biden or Speaker Pelosi are wearing because I’m curious.” She further stated, “As women rise to positions of power, there seems to be an unspoken expectation that we should suppress our femininity, turning ourselves into carbon copies of men. But this is not the case; as women, we bring a unique blend of our femininity, strength, intellect, and style to the table. We’re not just another version of these men; we’re bringing our fabulousness along too. And when we wear something extraordinary, we want you to know about it. By doing so, we’re also uplifting and encouraging the community of designers who dress us.
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2024-09-09 23:25