At the cries and plucks of Aase Nielsen’s stormy symphony from Berlin, Luca Magliano’s Fall/Winter 2025 show captivated Milan Fashion Week within a misty, enigmatic gym. The runway, dotted with sand, mirrored the Adriatic Riviera, or the renowned beach resort area where designer Luca Magliano grew up. It was dimly lit, and the atmosphere was tense, hinting at decadence just beyond the corner, much like a walk through his quieter coastal hometown during wintertime.
“Seascape, under the cover of night during winter, forms an iconic trio according to Magliano, who described it as a moment where individuals seek out an intense, powerful experience.
In Magliano’s design scheme, there was a deliberate element of disarray – a kind of “inside-outness” if you catch my drift. His muse’s preferred disorder was reflected in his creations. For instance, handbags designed with Milan bag-maker Medea were carelessly placed over undergarments, and lightweight cotton-ribbed jackets were fastened the wrong way, distorting the silhouette irregularly. Underwear showed from beneath skirts; belts became entangled on models’ waists; T-shirts were tied around coats, and tight leg warmers clashed with technical trousers with holes, each vying for attention in the foreground.
The line also presented “Nudo By Magliano,” a fresh sub-label by the designer, centered on reinventing essentials. He referred to the label’s first release as a “treasured sanctuary amidst the turmoil,” which encompassed outerwear pieces made from fleece and cotton, perfectly suited for nighttime adventures.
In the midst of chaos within the collection, Magliano discovered a radiant aspect in knitwear embellished with Swarovski crystals, echoing the moon’s sparkle. However, his interpretation of the shine remained somber: “Brightness is something tarnished and worn-out.
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2025-01-20 14:55