Maison Margiela & CELINE Debut New Directors as Balenciaga Says Farewell in This Week’s Top Fashion News

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Summary

  • The industry is abuzz with major creative director changes, as Glenn Martens steps into Maison Margiela and Michael Rider takes the helm at CELINE, while Demna bids farewell to Balenciaga. Elsewhere, Berlin showcases standout runways led by GmbH and David Koma.
  • The menswear landscape continues to shift, with Justin Bieber’s new line SKYLRK debuting with major star power, and Heron Preston’s bold move to regain full brand control New Guards Group.

Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela Fall 2025 Couture: A Debut for the Ages

Glenn Martens unveiled his much-anticipated first collection for Maison Margiela on July 9th, drawing inspiration from the pioneering spirit of Martin Margiela and the romantic influences of John Galliano during his tenure as creative director. This remarkable show was held at Le Centquatre, the Parisian cultural venue where Martin Margiela presented his final collection in March 2009.

The initial design echoes the 2009 exhibition featuring transparent polyurethane armor. Subsequently, items that seemed like leather coats exhibited a tough and rugged texture, and even delicate, flowing materials appeared scorched and worn out. As the event neared its end, vibrant floral patterns hinted at a rebirth, and a long-sleeved dress adorned with the riches of a golden treasure chest emerged. Despite being a fresh start for Maison Margiela, Martens showcased his ability to innovate while upholding traditional values.

Michael Rider’s CELINE Debut Is the Beginning of a Great Legacy

Michael Rider made his initial appearance with great excitement as the creative director for CELINE in Paris, a return that signals a fresh chapter for this prestigious brand. This new phase is characterized by prep-inspired fashions, striking shapes, elegant evening attire, and slim-fitting denim, all of which come after Hedi Slimane’s departure.

Previously employed at CELINE under Phoebe Philo, the designer underscores the essence of the brand through its fundamental principles: quality, timelessness, and an enduring sense of style. His collection harmoniously merges practicality with opulence, showcasing muted trench coats and blazers adorned with lavish gold jewelry. Vibrant hues such as bold blues, intense reds, and deep greens are prominently displayed on oversized handbags and well-proportioned athletic wear. The designer’s vision focuses on durability, aspiring to produce lasting pieces that bridge generations and become cherished treasures within the lives of their owners.

Demna’s Final Balenciaga Couture Collection Pursues “Perfection”

At the culmination of his 10-year stint at Balenciaga, Demna concluded his work by contemplating the ceaseless transformation in fashion. He strongly advocated for the industry to anticipate and outfit the future, even before it has been identified, a deep insight into his design ideology.

The 54th Fashion Collection, situated in Paris, showcased stars like Kim Kardashian and Naomi Campbell as its campaign models. Designer Demna creatively reinvented traditional “La Bourgeoisie” styles using daring tailoring and delicate patterns, coupled with a glamorous aesthetic reminiscent of Hollywood, particularly referencing Elizabeth Taylor. Men’s attire highlighted his unique approach to enhancing everyday items, such as presenting a couture sneaker and a laptop case resembling a jewelry box, seamlessly merging the ordinary with the extraordinary. This collection, serving as a fresh start before Pierpaolo Piccioli assumes control, was characterized by its understated elegance, emphasizing intricate details over previous flashy elements.

The Best Runways at Berlin Fashion Week SS26

During Berlin Fashion Week SS26, a remarkable selection of designers showcased their work, capturing global interest and spotlighting the city’s premier creative minds. The occasion served as a platform for distinctive fashion philosophies, such as David Koma’s inaugural menswear presentation titled “I LOVE DAVID.” This runway event paid tribute to wearable formal outfits, drawing inspiration from both David Beckham and Michelangelo’s famous sculpture, David.

For the Spring 2026 season, GmbH presented “Imitation of Life,” a poignant and thought-provoking display that examined the current global situation, finding optimism in childhood themes. Richert Beil’s “Milieuschutz” line signified a reconnection with purpose, delving into transformation and accountability, as designs were influenced by their latest workspace within an old pharmacy. Lastly, SF1OG offered a glimpse into the theme of obsessive yearning and emotional deterioration through the perspective of adolescent dreams during their Spring 2026 show. This collection showcased the spirit of youthful liberation and skillful craftsmanship on vintage fabrics.

Justin Bieber’s First SKYLRK Drop Is Now Live

Justin Bieber has now debuted his fresh fashion brand, SKYLRK, showcasing its first lively assortment. This move signifies a change from his earlier brand, Drew House, symbolizing a new artistic direction. Following almost 18 months of hinting, the initial release encompasses a variety of clothing and accessories such as hoodies, headwear, over-sized sunglasses, and two shoe designs.

This collection showcases hoodies in vibrant shades of “Fizz” yellow, deep “Super Blue,” and sleek “Smudge” black. Accentuating these are beanies in soft “Gum” pink, vivid “Jelly” red, and bold “Fizz.” A striking item is the oversized “Upside Down” sunglasses with eye-catching, bulbous lenses, a style mirrored in the chunky “Mule” and “Beach Slide” shoes. The entire collection can now be found on SKYLRK’s official online store; more information about the brand will be revealed soon.

Heron Preston Regains Full Control of Brand from New Guards Group

Heron Preston regains full ownership of his brand from New Guards Group (NGG), indicating a new chapter for the designer. Preston, who started his label with NGG in 2017, has repurchased control during strategic changes at NGG, such as their recent bankruptcy filing and acquisition by Coupang. This action comes after other brands like AMBUSH and Palm Angels have also left NGG’s collection.

Preston underscored his dedication to his artistic ideals by expressing that he “stood firm for my identity, my artistry, and my vision.” Now residing in Brooklyn and self-funded, he is ready to debut his upcoming collection in October. Regaining control gives Preston the opportunity to solely concentrate on broadening his distinctive design style, signifying a fresh, captivating phase for the brand.

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2025-07-11 23:26