Stephanie Collie, British Costume Designer on ‘Peaky Blinders’ and ‘Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels,’ Dies at 60

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As a gamer who grew up in the 90s and early 2000s, Stephanie Collie’s work was like a treasure trove of nostalgia for me. From the iconic looks she created for Daniel Craig in “Layer Cake” to the impeccable style of Jason Statham in “Wrath of Man,” her costumes were always a highlight of any movie I watched.

Renowned British costume designer Stephanie Collie, whose work in films like “Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels” and “Peaky Blinders” significantly impacted popular culture beyond the silver screen, tragically passed away at the age of 60.

Collie passed away last Saturday at St. Christopher’s Hospice in South London, six months after being diagnosed with terminal cancer, as confirmed by her representative. Sadly, her husband, the 63-year-old director of photography Hubert Taczanowski, had already passed away in June.

Collie’s filmography features roles in several notable productions, including “The Look of Love” directed by Michael Winterbottom (2013), which starred Steve Coogan, Anna Friel, and Imogen Poots; the action films “London Has Fallen” (2016) and its 2019 sequel, “Angel Has Fallen,” both of which featured Gerard Butler and Morgan Freeman; and “The Hitman’s Bodyguard” directed by Patrick Hughes (2017), starring Samuel L. Jackson, Ryan Reynolds, and Salma Hayek, as well as its 2021 sequel, “Hitman’s Wife’s Bodyguard.

Collie experienced a significant milestone in his acting journey when he starred in the British gangster movie “Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels” (1998), which was helmed by director Guy Ritchie and produced by Matthew Vaughn.

In 2021, Christopher Laverty from Clothes on Film stated that when Lock, Stock first appeared, its Mod-influenced outfits made quite an impact on fashion worldwide. Every men’s magazine featured images of men wearing slim pants and jersey polo shirts.

Stephanie Collie originated this distinctive style, offering a striking demonstration of how costuming can surpass a film and take on a life of its own. In fact, one could argue that Stephanie Collie played a significant role in shaping an epoch.

In the world of gritty British crime dramas, stepping back into 1919 with Stephen Knight’s Peaky Blinders, I found my reputation as a top-notch costume designer solidified even further. Drawing inspiration from real-life criminal mugshots of the era, I crafted the distinctive looks for Cillian Murphy’s character, Tommy Shelby, and his Birmingham street gang that graced our screens on BBC.

Embracing the trend of white club collars, tweed waistcoats, flat caps, and baker boy hats has been my way of contributing to a groundbreaking shift in modern British men’s fashion.

Collie commissioned suits for Murphy from tailor Keith Watson in London. Over time, numerous individuals wrote to her for guidance on attaining the authentic “Peaky Blinders” style. In response, she developed handy guides or shortcuts to help people dress appropriately.

In her 2021 interview with Esquire, she advised, “For a smart look, consider investing in a well-fitted three-piece suit. Have the trousers tailored to fit snugly, making them shorter if necessary. Opt for lace-up boots that go up to your ankle and complete the ensemble with a suitable six-piece section cap, or baker boy hat. With these choices, you’ll be stylishly dressed.

Stephanie Elizabeth Collie, the oldest daughter among four girls, was born to Scottish parents Peter and Elizabeth Collie on November 16, 1963, in Warrington, Cheshire, England. Her grandmother on her mother’s side was a tailor.

Collie studied at Pates Grammar School for Girls in Cheltenham, Cheltenham Arts College, and the London College of Fashion. She began her career in the costume department at the BBC, working alongside costume designer Susan Coates, a connection she made during her time at the London College of Fashion.

After being introduced to David Parfitt, the co-founder of the Renaissance Theatre Company alongside Kenneth Branagh, she worked as a wardrobe assistant for Branagh on the 1993 film “Much Ado About Nothing” and collaborated with Coates as a costume designer on the 1992 film “Peter’s Friends,” which was directed by Branagh as well.

Following their collaboration in “Lock, Stock”, Collie joined forces again with Vaughn for his first directorial feature film, “Layer Cake” (2004). This partnership resulted in an iconic portrayal of Daniel Craig’s main character.

According to the men’s fashion blog BAMF Style, she matched him with a dark brown leather jacket from Alfred Dunhill, a light gray short-sleeved T-shirt, medium-dark wash blue jeans from Levi’s, and R.M. Williams Chelsea boots.

She shared with Clothes on Film, “I take great pleasure in styling men. I truly enjoy it.” She continued, “From the lads on Lock, Stock, I’ve always been captivated by dressing men. They can be so dashing. And it’s not just about vintage clothing. I believe that modern men have forgotten the elegance of self-dressing. It seems everyone is too casual these days. I feel that people no longer take the time to truly examine their appearance in the mirror.

As a devoted admirer, I’d like to share my thoughts on Susanna White, who collaborated with Collie on the captivating production of “Woman Walks Ahead” (2017), featuring Jessica Chastain. Susanna’s costume designer had an exceptional originality in her design sensibilities – there was always a fresh, unconventional flair to her work that set it apart from the ordinary.

Her work on ‘Woman Walks Ahead’ was exceptional; she delved into original resources to authenticate the clothing worn by the Lakota people and Jessica Chastain, ensuring historical accuracy while infusing the movie with a modern flair.

Through her work, she conveyed compelling narratives without drawing attention to herself, much like her humble demeanor. Her costumes were always harmonious with the overall creative vision, never trying to stand out. Even on demanding days, she maintained her unique blend of wit and elegance. She leaves behind a void that will be deeply felt.

In the action-packed movie “The 355” released in 2022, Jessica Chastain was joined once more by Penelope Cruz, as well as Lupita Nyong’o and Diane Kruger, forming an ensemble cast.

Collie was responsible for creating costumes for several films, including “How to Build a Girl” directed by Coky Giedroyc in 2019, which starred Beanie Feldstein; the action-packed “Wrath of Man” from Guy Ritchie in 2021, featuring Jason Statham; and the upcoming spy thriller “Argylle” by Vaughn, set to release in 2024 with stars like Henry Cavill, Bryce Dallas Howard, Jackson, Dua Lipa, and Sam Rockwell.

Collie recently completed work on the Amazon historical drama series titled “My Lady Jane,” which aired this year. Her latest venture, “Stunt Nuts: The Movie,” another joint production with Vaughn, is currently undergoing post-production.

Among the individuals who carry on are her siblings, Fiona, Alison, and Nicola; her grandnieces and grandnephews, Holly, Lucy, Amy, Sam, Connor, and Ethan; as well as her stepdaughter, Julia.

Vaughn stated, ‘Stephanie and I collaborated for thirty years and produced seven movies together. She was an embodiment of refined style and optimism, and she tirelessly persevered in completing every challenge until it was executed flawlessly.’

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2024-10-31 21:55