As a fashion enthusiast and someone who has been fortunate enough to attend numerous fashion weeks around the globe, I must say that Milan Fashion Week never fails to impress. This season was particularly captivating, with Elisabetta Franchi’s collection embodying the essence of contrasts and the female spirit in a stunning display of structured yet sensual designs. The collection felt like a reflection of modern women who are confident, determined, and unafraid to embrace their femininity while challenging societal norms.
The fashion show for women’s SS25 collection attracted celebrities such as Shailene Woodley, David Beckham, and Ed Westwick to the Italian city. Some creative heads and founders of various brands shared their unique sources of inspiration for their collections in an exclusive interview with The Hollywood Reporter.
Brunello Cucinelli combines the Riviera with desert dunes
In a casual, friendly manner, Brunello Cucinelli personally greeted guests at the venue, discussing his latest collection with THR. With Mediterranean vitality and desert tranquility blended together, the Umbrian designer described his inspiration as seeking balance in life, reflecting on living within moderation. He elaborated that this concept led to imagery of beach escapes and lightweight materials for travel. “The craftsmanship is impeccable,” Cucinelli emphasized, “but we prioritize traditional techniques.” The collection predominantly features muted tones such as grays and beiges, aligning with the brand’s signature aesthetic. Hollywood celebrities including Jeremy Allen White, Jennifer Lopez, Colman Domingo, and Ashley Park have already embraced the brand. This new line offers a minimal yet exotic vibe, exuding timeless elegance and ethereal charm. Known for their knitwear, Cucinelli and his team innovatively incorporated the cracked-effect into embroidery using yarn that brings 3D patterns to life. Essentially, this collection is perfect for your next getaway.
The Latin American Fashion Awards shows Europe how it’s done
2023 saw the Latin American Fashion Awards arrive in Milan, showcasing their esteemed awards ceremony which originally took place in November of the same year in the Dominican Republic, where J. Balvin was named Icon of the Year. Founders and fashion icons from Latin America, Constanza Etro and Silvia Argüello, were present in Milan, backed by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, to emphasize the high-quality design talent emerging from Latin America. As Argüello stated, “This project isn’t just about Latin America; it’s about the worldwide talent of Latin Americans who are revolutionizing and making a significant impact on the fashion industry as a whole. The most talented photographers, stylists, and artisans hail from Latin America. It was past due that we highlighted the creative minds from Latin America changing the global fashion scene.
Desserto co-founders Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez, winners of various awards from Mexico, discussed their innovative approach of transforming cactus into leather alternatives for brands such as Michael Kors, Apple, and even Adidas’ boxing gloves for the 2024 Paris Summer Olympics. Meanwhile, Tomás Vera, a Verdi award recipient, spoke about his Colombian textile studio, which specializes in creating handbags and rugs using metal fibers. He explained that this unique marketing strategy helped boost their brand visibility, contributing to 25% of their total sales. On Thursday, they hosted a well-attended event near the Milan Duomo, attracting notable figures like Marco Falcioni, senior vp creative direction at Boss, as well as David Koma and Arianna Casadei. The next Latin American Fashion Awards are scheduled for 2025.
L’Saha shows in Milan for the first time with an Earth-friendly collection
The London-rooted brand, known for outfitting British actress Mecia Simson (The Witcher) and Tamara Rojo, decided against revealing their collection in London but instead chose Milan’s Weston Palace Hotel as the venue. An eco-friendly label, this collection emphasizes Earth’s essence and human qualities – primarily depicting humanity’s transformation into intuitive and conscious beings who safeguard our planet Earth. Creative director Laboni Saha crafted 100% handwoven garments at their London atelier from sustainable, environmentally friendly materials to convey this narrative. In the collection notes, Saha says, “This collection serves as our appeal to revisit a time when our minds were unburdened by wider global agendas. To reconnect with what truly matters to us and make decisions (in fashion and beyond) based on that authenticity. When we live authentically, the world around us becomes authentic too.” Each piece is designed to minimize its environmental footprint throughout its entire existence.
Fendi is all about the strong woman
On the first day of Fashion Week, Fendi showcased its collection in a pristine, all-white setting at Superstudio Max. Actress Shailene Woodley was spotted front row, clutching the latest iteration of Fendi’s famous Peekaboo bag. Kicking off the show was model Anok Yai, donning Red Wing boots, symbolizing the collection’s theme “Dal 1925.” This year marks Fendi’s inception, as Kim Jones, artistic director of couture and womenswear, highlights in his collection notes. For Jones, Fendi is more than just a brand that celebrates womanhood; it’s a label that empowers women who do, rather than merely acknowledging them for their femininity.
Redemption, the brand, celebrates 10 years
Gabriele Moratti expressed backstage that this show was unique because it commemorated the last ten years. The aim behind combining our most popular hits with fresh designs wasn’t about self-praise, but rather to express gratitude and honor everyone who has supported us since the beginning. The collection was divided into two sections: one featuring Redemption classics, followed by pieces centered around new motifs. Moratti believes that rock ‘n’ roll encompasses everything vibrant, rebellious, and free-spirited – this might be why actress Constance Wu has shown interest in the brand. The collection predominantly used a color scheme of white, pink, silver, black, gold, and touches of red, showcased on blazers, blouses, pants, and flowing dresses. Each look embodied the audacious spirit of rock ‘n’ roll while still exuding a delicate elegance.
Boss reminds us of the importance of relaxing
David Beckham, Michele Marrone, and Paul Froman from “Emily in Paris” were regular attendees at Wednesday’s Boss fashion show, themed around “Out of Office”. Notable models Anok Yai and Alton Mason, who portrayed Little Richard in Baz Luhrmann’s “Elvis”, graced the runway. The event took place in a lush garden setting within the Palazzo del Senato courtyard, showcasing Marco Falcioni’s laid-back designs as senior vp creative direction at the House. This was a deliberate contrast to the busy city life of Milan, offering a glimpse into what can be found: tranquility and serenity.
In this current season, we’ve moved away from the rigid structure of conventional double-breasted power suits, characterized by their sharp lines and perceived as a rigid barrier around the person wearing them. Instead, the star piece is a subtle three-button suit made from lighter materials, which gracefully envelops the body without the need for shoulder pads or restrictive internal frameworks. This marks a shift: A true leader is self-assured and confident; they recognize when it’s time to disconnect and reclaim their personal time, stepping out to unwind with ease, free from the constraints of rules and regulations. The concept behind this collection was off-duty relaxation, drawing inspiration from loungewear and trench coats that prioritize the wearer’s freedom. Stiff tailoring has taken a backseat, making way for more relaxed silhouettes.
Maccapani shows us knits can be worn in evening wear
The SS25 collection by the brand, titled “Maccapani’s Micro-Scale Journey,” is inspired by the legacy of its founder Margherita Maccapani and the Missoni brand established by her grandparents in 1952 through knitting. In this collection, Margherita weaves utopian knit patterns to spin Alpine fairytales. Pieces such as the Little Fuchsia Riding Hood dress, the Princess Corset, the Belt-Shawl, and Medieval Puff-Sleeve Jackets are featured. All items are made from jersey or knitwear material, including the dresses and pantsuits. The designs exude a bold, youthful, and feminine sensuality. To narrate the collection’s modern, female empowerment story, Maccapani showcased the presentation at Villa Macca, with each room – living room, bedroom, garden, and bathroom – telling its own tale, with models scattered throughout the different spaces.
For Margherita the collection needed to flow easily from daytime to evening, which propelled her to start Maccapani in the first place. “I started this brand because in the history of fashion there have always been brands that have tried to make women’s lives easier. Chanel started cutting knitwear pants to make horseback riding easier, or my grandparents (Ottavio and Rosita Missoni who started Missoni) started cutting evening-wear in knit for the theater. In the 2000s we borrowed from women’s and sports, but it never really picked up in the women’s market. So, creating a brand that follows women’s lives using jersey is what was my inspiration,” she says.
LaDoubleJ is maximalist chic
LaDoubleJ stands out with its unique design aesthetic, catering to a particular type of woman, yet offering something appealing even to minimalists. The SS25 display deviated slightly from the norm as guests were guided through the main area into a serene sound healing meditation. The atmosphere was tranquil and peaceful, combining fashion with sound therapy. LaDoubleJ was established by JJ Martin, who has gained recognition from celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez and Nicole Ari Parker. The brand has also collaborated with Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop. Over the past few years, Martin has been open about her spiritual journey, seamlessly integrating it into her brand. For this event, Martin invited spiritual healers from various parts of the world to conduct sessions. The collection showcases the bold prints LaDoubleJ is famous for, as well as new designs like the Marlene Dress. There are work-friendly looks such as the Derby Cardigan, casual eveningwear options, and formal dresses like the Wonder Dress.
The Wilde Private Member’s Club set to open in November
Visiting Milan in November will bring you to The Wilde, a private members club situated near Montenapoleone, within Villa del Platano. This fresh addition to the city’s nightlife scene stands out as an exclusive venue, since Soho House hasn’t made its debut in Milan yet. The club aims to celebrate diversity and offers three distinct restaurants showcasing Japanese, Mediterranean, and Latin American cuisines. The lower level will host DJ sets by guest artists. Despite being under construction during Milan Fashion Week, it managed to draw key figures who were eager to catch a glimpse of its future reality in November. Previously owned by Santo Versace (Donatella and Gianni’s brother), the villa was purchased in 2022 by Three Hills Capital Partners and will be led by Gary Landesberg, who is both the chairman and founder. He previously held the position of Executive Chairman and shareholder at The Arts Club in London.
Elisabetta Franchi is all about contrasts
Celebrating its 10th anniversary of 20 runway shows, Elisabetta Franchi’s latest fashion show, themed “The Femme Paradox,” took place. Notable attendees included Ed Westwick and his wife, actress Amy Jackson, as well as French fashion editor Carine Roitfeld, seated front row. The collection is designed for the empowered woman who is confident, determined, feminine, and self-assured. The design team, as described in the collection notes, “delves into the tension between black and white, and between strength and softness.” However, there’s an alluring sensuality to it. The collection features numerous contrasts: tough masculine fabrics paired with delicate tulle and silk organza, warm hues like cocoa and curry added against the predominant black and white palette, and power suit jackets and masculine trousers combined with lace, bows, and floral details. Following the show, a lavish soiree was held at the brand’s showroom northeast of the city, which was likely one of the best events during Milan Fashion Week. The party, both indoors and outdoors, attracted friends of the House, with DJ Mëstiza providing the music.
Philipp Plein closes out MFW with bold prints and a performance by Fabulous at his new hotel
Philip Plein is unveiling a brand new hotel, The Plein Hotel, in Milan. A preliminary opening has started and the grand opening will take place at the end of October. Over the weekend, an enormous gathering of friends and the fashion industry came together to get a sneak peek of what the upcoming SS25 collection holds. The runway was strategically placed on the lower level of the hotel, showcasing what will become Philip’s restaurant/nightclub, the courtyard, and various entrances. This luxurious hotel promises unique experiences not found in Milan, such as a beach club, three custom-designed restaurants, and nearly every room resembling a suite. Now, let’s discuss the collection – it’s diverse! It ranges from streetwear to evening attire. Designs feature Philip Plein’s signature bold monogram prints blended seamlessly with denim, transitioning effortlessly from day to night. The theme revolves around embarking on a road trip from Cinque Terre to Montecarlo, as demonstrated by the blend of men’s and women’s looks showcased in the collection. In the end, Plein himself led the finale alongside rapper Fabulous.
During the week, various brands presented their collections, including DSquared2, who unveiled their men’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection (originally premiered in June), and Serapian, an upscale Milanese handbag brand, showcased their presentation at Villa Mozart. Casadei also debuted their latest assortment in a private event, where CEO Anna Casadei warmly welcomed attendees. Notably, the Blade Heel has been adjusted from 10cm to 8cm, and now it’s available in 1.5cm with their Mini Blade. Celebrities such as Olivia Wilde, Dakota Fanning, and Aubrey Plaza have all donned Casadei shoes. According to Anna, “This collection is timeless. It caters to every woman’s requirements for contemporary times. We continue to advance, season after season.
Notably, Rene Caovilla, adored by stars like Jennifer Aniston, Heidi Klum, Kim Kardashian, and Rihanna, showcased its spring-summer collection recently. The lineup included stylish footwear such as the Cleo sandals, Cinderella, Chandelier sandal, and Margot sandal. Intriguingly, in 2023, The New York Times highlighted an article on Caovilla’s designs being most frequently imitated, particularly its spiral and jeweled sandals. However, identifying a genuine Caovilla shoe can be done easily by spotting the distinctive sparkling silver soles.
Milan Fashion Week followed London Fashion Week, while Paris Fashion Week starts Monday.
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2024-09-23 03:55