The ‘Sideways’ Revolution: How a Single Joke Upended the Wine World

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As a wine enthusiast and film buff who has had the pleasure of visiting the Santa Ynez Valley, I can’t help but feel a deep connection to the characters in Sideways. However, after reading this article, it’s clear that the valley has undergone an incredible transformation since the movie was filmed.

Alexander Payne initially had humble predictions for the movie “Sideways“, which premiered in fall 2004 as an understated indie about a comical buddy road trip through picturesque California wine country. With an approximate production cost of $16 million, the film eventually grossed over $100 million globally and received an Academy Award for best adapted screenplay, along with nominations for best picture, best director, best supporting actor (Thomas Haden Church), and best supporting actress (Virginia Madsen).

In the process of creating “Sideways”, Payne thought it was merely a humorous little comedy with no inkling that it would endure through time. The merlot line, which is believed to have impacted the wine industry significantly, was actually just a jest – a solitary joke in a movie. Who could have foreseen such an outcome?

In the movie, it’s around the midpoint where a crucial scene unfolds. The character Miles, portrayed by Paul Giamatti in his usual agitated state, has a heated argument with his soon-to-be-married friend Jack (Church) outside a restaurant in Los Olivos. Inside, the intriguing newcomers Maya (Madsen) and Stephanie (Sandra Oh) wait. Miles declares emphatically, “If anyone orders merlot, I’m walking out.” He adds, “I refuse to drink any Merlot at all!

13 words from the movie had a prophetic impact on sommeliers and industry experts, leading to a significant decrease in Merlot sales while boosting Miles’ preferred type of wine. This trend, which was substantiated by a 2009 Sonoma State University study linking it directly to the film, resonated in winemaking areas worldwide, but particularly in Santa Barbara County, where the movie was filmed.

Just as swiftly as theatergoers shifted their allegiance from Margo Channing to Eve Harrington in All About Eve, vineyard owners and restaurant managers started focusing their interest from the robust merlot to the delicate pinot grape, the rising sensation in the wine world. Winemaker Doug Margerum, who owned The Wine Cask in Santa Barbara during the release of Sideways, had an unparalleled view. “We struggled to sell pinot beforehand,” he recalls, “but once the film premiered, everyone wanted to taste it, and sales soared dramatically. We went from having a single page dedicated to pinots on our wine list to three.

According to James Sparks, winemaker at Spear and Liquid Farm situated in Santa Ynez Valley – the backdrop of the movie, around two and a half hours north of Los Angeles – the film significantly impacted the region, leading to an increase in pinot noir vineyards. Notably, the Santa Rita Hills viticultural area within the valley is renowned for its optimal conditions for cultivating top-quality pinot noir grapes. Sparks explains, “We stand out due to our east-west orientated mountains and coastal influence that creates an excellent climate for growing pinot noir.

Winemaker Kathy Joseph from Fiddlehead Cellars in Santa Rita Hills attributes the recent surge in popularity of Pinot Noir grapes to the film’s poetic portrayal. She believes that people gained a deeper understanding of Pinot Noir on a more profound, spiritual level after watching the movie. The eloquent description of the wine in the film made it irresistible for viewers, encouraging them to indulge in more of it. Consequently, the allure of the wine extends to the charm of the region where it originates.

As a passionate gamer, let me tell you about my favorite game character: Pinot. This one’s a challenge to master, much like a thin-skinned, temperamental grape variety. It’s not your run-of-the-mill survivor like Cabernet; no, it requires constant nurturing and attention. And oh, its flavors! They are hauntingly beautiful, brilliant, thrilling, subtle, ancient – a cosmic symphony in every glass.

This ode to pinot owes a debt to the novel the film was based on. Miles is effectively the alter ego of Sideways author Rex Pickett, who still swoons over pinot. “I love its femininity and range of expression,” says Pickett. “Pinot inspires poetry and lyricism. It’s a bottomless ocean of mystery.”

Following the movie’s release, there was a surge in pinot plantations, while merlot vines were uprooted – a change that some local winemakers found beneficial. As master sommelier Carlton McCoy, CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates, explains, “The film significantly affected merlot. In many aspects, it was overdue. Merlot was planted in vineyards where it didn’t belong, leading to excessive plantings. After the movie, growers planted less of it.

The Santa Ynez Valley experienced a significant boost in recognition beyond any other winemaking region after the “Sideways” phenomenon. Prior to the book and film, this region’s less-known wines were elevated to stardom. As Rusty Pickett, one of the writers, recalls, the area was largely undeveloped during the time he drove through it for writing and later while filming, with no signs of high-end establishments. Interestingly enough, one of the early winemakers in this region was actor Fess Parker, famous for his roles as Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone in the ’50s and ’60s. He established Fess Parker Winery, which served as a backdrop for the movie’s climax, featuring Miles drinking from a spit bucket and subsequently dumping what appeared to be wastewater on himself. Following the film’s release, Parker took pleasure in the increased business and media attention, validating his early faith in Santa Ynez. “He was quite optimistic about Santa Barbara County as a developing region and a tourist destination for hospitality,” says his daughter Ashley Parker Snider, allowing him to boast about the area during interviews.

should luck be on your side and your wine or business make an appearance in the film, it would undoubtedly be a transformative event. The mention of Joseph’s Fiddlehead Cellars, during a scene shot at Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Cafe, sent ripples throughout the industry. As Joseph explains, “The influence of Sideways on my brand and the Santa Ynez Valley as a whole was staggering. It feels like the movie premiered just yesterday. The wine continues to sell briskly, and visitors flock to our location in droves, all drawn by the connection to Sideways.

Over the past two decades, there’s been substantial development in this area. As they were shooting “Sideways,” there were approximately 100 vineyards in Santa Barbara’s wine region, according to Alison Laslett, CEO of Santa Barbara Vintners, an organization that champions the county as a top grape-growing and winemaking destination. Today, we boast more than 300 brands and around 75 distinct types.

Numerous eateries, some even awarded by Michelin, have moved to the area, along with established favorites such as The Hitching Post and Solvang Restaurant, as endorsed by Sideways. Meanwhile, wine tasting venues significantly multiplied.

In 2004, only a handful of wineries were located in the charming town of Los Olivos and none in the Danish-inspired village of Solvang, known for its bakeries and trinket shops. As Pickett recalls, tastings were free and there weren’t many customers at that time. However, today, over 30 wineries can be found, with tasting fees ranging from $20 to $50. Pickett, the region’s poet laureate, describes it as a beautiful union of wine and the rural, enchanting landscape of Santa Ynez Valley. He believes that tasting rooms stimulate conversations and foster camaraderie among people.

For quite some time before her role in the movie, Madsen had been frequenting Santa Ynez Valley. Even now, she continues to be captivated by the region. As she shares with THR, “I wasn’t knowledgeable about wine tasting at that time, but it served as my haven, and I have a deep emotional bond there.” There was a period where she couldn’t visit due to the surge in popularity of the family-owned businesses following the film, which led to an influx of tour buses and bridal showers. However, she notes that the valley didn’t lose its charm; instead, it adapted and flourished with success. Despite the changes, it maintains a welcoming and homely atmosphere. There is something magical about that place, as life seems to move at a slower pace there.

As I journey through this enchanting region again, I can’t help but feel like an outsider amidst the bustling new wineries, accommodations, and eateries that have sprung up. Yet, in my heart, it remains a place untouched by commerce and tourism, where pure joy prevails. In some strange way, perhaps I’ve managed to immortalize its essence with each visit.

Giamatti never shared his character’s obsession. “I had virtually no knowledge of wine before the movie and didn’t drink it much, and I still don’t know diddly about it and don’t drink it at all now,” he tells THR. “I’m not even sure what wine is what color. I feel badly because I disappoint fans and sommeliers all the time. I like Guinness and tequila. Not together, of course. Separately.” 

He, too, was recently in town and also wonders about the effects of the film’s success. “I was sad to see Pea Soup Andersen’s in Buellton was gone, but I was amazed by everything that has popped up in the interim,” he adds. “Changing the place so dramatically through making a film there is not something I ever imagined happening. I hope it’s been good for the folks who live there.”

Initially, some residents were hesitant to take part, but at the very last moment, certain businesses scheduled for inclusion in the movie “Sideways” withdrew their participation. As Pickett explains, Frank Ostini, proprietor of The Hitching Post, obtained a copy of the script and feared it would negatively impact the region, so he gathered everyone and attempted to halt production of the film. Several vineyards ultimately chose not to join in. However, at the last minute, Ostini decided to rejoin, and The Hitching Post became one of the film’s most iconic shooting locations and is now a must-visit destination for wine enthusiasts.

Although many winemakers, whose wines weren’t showcased in the movie, capitalized on its success and enjoyed a pinot noir boom, not everyone reaped the benefits of this wine gold rush. For instance, Lane Tanner, another trailblazing pinot noir producer who was once married to Ostini before the film, experienced a drastically different outcome post-Sideways. “The movie wrecked havoc in my life beyond your imagination,” she admits. “It was marvelous for those featured in the film – they couldn’t have asked for better publicity – but it wasn’t favorable for everyone.” The increased demand for pinot noir far outpaced its supply, making the grapes too expensive for winemakers like Tanner. “Everyone wanted to create pinot noir from Santa Barbara County following the movie, which skyrocketed our grape prices,” she explains. “Pinot noir is a delicate grape variety that only thrives in specific regions and requires a coastal climate – it’s quite challenging to cultivate. If you look at pinot noir wrong during fermentation, it can spoil. Three years later, everyone who was producing cabernet sauvignon was making pinot noir and discovered they couldn’t produce quality pinot, so they ended up discarding it and practically giving it away.

Despite pinot still being the wine industry’s prized gem, McCoy argues that adjustments are essential. He claims that in regions too warm for the grape, pinot noir is excessively cultivated. This has led to a large output that bears little resemblance to pinot noir, and has fostered a market that accepts a style of pinot noir devoid of its unique characteristics. A correction in pinot noir plantations is imminent, as was the case with merlot.

McCoy is confident that Merlot will make a resurgence in popularity – even if it’s a gradual return to favor. He notes that it’s now simpler to market Merlot compared to a decade ago. As a personal preference, he admires a lively and refined Merlot, which frequently originates from Coombsville, Carneros, and the mountain regions.

Rebecca Phillips, proprietor of Buvette and Vintage Wine Bars located within the San Fernando Valley, considers merlot to be “possibly one of the finest types of grapes on earth,” and she attributes the negative portrayal of this variety in movies like “Sideways” to a misconception.

As a wine enthusiast and avid gamer, let me clarify something about the movie we both watched: Miles never explicitly stated that Merlot was a bad wine or grape. In fact, it shares many similarities with Cabernet Sauvignon. So, why should we dismiss it just because of some misconception sparked by the film? Unfortunately, some viewers might have developed an aversion to Merlot based on the movie, but real wine connoisseurs didn’t let that stop them from appreciating their beloved old-world Merlots.

The winemaker agrees: “The irony of the film lies in the fact that Miles is drinking Cheval Blanc, a wine predominantly made from Merlot grapes, at the end.” This scene, where he pairs a 1961 vintage of this renowned Bordeaux blend (in a Styrofoam cup) with a fast-food burger, is intriguing. “In fact,” the winemaker adds, “Merlot thrives well in Santa Barbara County due to its cooler climate, which is exactly what we experience here.

The director of the movie “Sideways” is himself a fan. “I’ve always been partial to merlot,” Payne states. “The quality ones, specifically – and for our upcoming 20th anniversary celebrations this fall, I’m demanding that only merlot be served.” However, he also recounted an anecdote about producing and bottling his own pinot noir with a group of friends in a Santa Monica apartment 15 years ago, which “tastes wonderfully well even today.

Apart from its significant influence on the pinot-merlot debate, the movie “Sideways” served to unveil the complexities of the wine world that were once obscure, thereby sparking a new generation of American wine enthusiasts. Jared Hooper, a sommelier and wine director at Santa Rosa’s exclusive Mayacama golf club, opines that this film reshaped Americans’ perception of wine. “I believe it challenged the stereotype of the elitist, snobbish wine connoisseur and instead introduced genuine enthusiasm and reverence,” he remarks.

Madsen personally witnessed the transformation unfold. “Many men I was acquainted with, who had never touched wine before, began to dabble in it and found a fresh experience they could engage with and appreciate,” she explains. “And women were organizing their own tastings. That aspect of it really appeals to me.

Payne expresses interest in another movie set within the wine world, yet with certain conditions. He states, “Wow, it all hinges on the story! I’d be more than happy to revisit the realm of oenophiles, but who are the characters? What’s the narrative? Is there some humor involved?

In his fifth instalment of the “Sideways” series, Pickett is currently writing. However, there’s speculation about whether Miles, Jack, Maya, and Stephanie might reappear on screen again. Despite the timeless charm that “Sideways” has maintained over the years, Giamatti expresses a reluctance towards creating a new edition. He believes that it’s crucial for the storyline and characters to remain open-ended and ambiguous. In his words, “The characters are only given a brief glimpse of their lives, leaving us to ponder about where they might end up.” Giamatti isn’t fond of sequels or long-running series and prefers standalone movies with enigmatic conclusions. He finds the charm in meeting these characters briefly and then never seeing them again, allowing our imaginations to wonder about their future. He feels that explaining what happens afterwards would diminish the magic for him, and he prefers the mystery of not knowing.

Side-bar: The Santa Ynez Valley’s Wining and Dining Renaissance

Much like the movie Sideways brought Pinot Noir to prominence, it also sparked a tourism boom in Santa Ynez Valley that continues to thrive. At the time of filming, there were only a few simple dining and lodging options, with just two notable filming locations, Hitching Post and Solvang Restaurant, still popular attractions today. However, over time, these traditional favorites, which have kept their original interiors, now coexist with numerous designer-finished, Michelin-starred restaurants and accommodations.

Sandra Oh recently explored the vibrant food scene in town and raved about its beauty and exceptional restaurants. She particularly enjoyed Mattei’s, S.Y. Kitchen, and Peasant’s Feast, and plans to return to Bar Le Cote. Rebecca Phillips, a local sommelier and Santa Ynez Valley enthusiast, agrees that the dining scene is fantastic and features high-end hotels. Peasant’s Feast, located in Solvang, boasts bustling business and recently expanded to a deli shop and arcade. Ramen Kotori, a newer addition, is the first dedicated ramen restaurant in town, while The Gathering Table offers French Asian fusion cuisine at a swanky dining room. Chef Daisy Ryan’s Bell’s, located inside a liquor store, serves up delicious Italian fare at an affordable price. Lastly, Toscana Group’s Nella Kitchen & Bar and S.Y. Kitchen are popular spots with industry insiders for their exceptional food.

The hotels scattered throughout the valley have undergone a revitalization as well. For instance, Virginia Madsen announced that the once drab motel featured in the film “Sideways” is now known as the “Sideways Inn.” The Landsby, centrally located in Solvang, exudes Scandinavian flair and boasts a lively bar scene and popular dining spot, Mad&Vin. The Genevieve and Hotel Ynez, both situated in Santa Ynez, offer sleek decor and inviting outdoor spaces for gatherings. Alisal Ranch, in operation since 1946, is one of the most historic and expansive retreats in the area and has revealed updated guest rooms adorned with modern Western decor. Fess Parker Wine Country Inn, which recently debuted renovated guest rooms as well, has been the longest-standing luxury boutique hotel located in the heart of Los Olivos’ historic town center. Additionally, there’s a touch of sophistication with the nearby Auberge property — The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, once a stagecoach stop in the 1800s, has just unveiled a luxurious spa called Lavender Barn, which is currently the only lavish destination spa in town.

Over the past two decades, there has been a significant shift in the demographics of winemakers. In the past, male winemakers held the majority of positions, but that has changed. Now, it’s said that Santa Ynez Valley boasts the highest number of female vintners and winemakers globally. Jessica Gasca from Strange Family Vineyards and Tasting Room, Paula Tabalipa who was once a stylist and costumer designer for James Mangold films at Tabalipa Wine Co., and actress Sunny Doench Stricker of Future Perfect Wine are all making headlines. Sommelier Jared Hooper affirms that many top-tier winemakers worldwide are women.

A version of this story appeared in the Nov. 13 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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2024-11-16 20:26