As a fashion enthusiast who has witnessed the evolution of the industry over the past few decades, I must say that I am utterly thrilled by Valentino‘s new direction under Alessandro Michele. Having been captivated by his subversive approach to gender binaries at Gucci, I eagerly anticipate how he will redefine luxury fashion with a unisex presentation.
For Alessandro Michele’s debut runway showing after leaving Gucci, Valentino has revealed that their upcoming calendar will merge women’s and men’s collections into a single unisex presentation displayed during the Paris women’s fashion seasons. Moreover, there will only be one combined couture show annually. This tactical move signifies the start of a fresh creative direction for the brand under Michele’s leadership.
There has been much speculation about what lies ahead for Valentino, following the departure of Pierpaolo Piccioli in 2023 and the shelving of several presentations initially planned for 2024. After the high point of the 2020 lockdown, Piccioli re-established Valentino’s status by debuting its first men’s haute couture pieces in SS21. This show marked a turning point for Valentino, maintaining intrigue with runway performances such as the FW22 presentation that showcased co-ed models adorned entirely in “Pierpaolo Pink.” Now, with Alessandro Michele at the helm, it seems likely that Valentino will continue to advance Piccioli’s innovative vision. Notably, it was Michele who frequently broke gender norms during his tenure at Gucci.
Reducing the number of runway shows could provide Valentino with a breath of fresh air, given their prolonged period of high exposure. With the shift towards “quiet luxury,” less extravagant displays of opulence being preferred, this change might be particularly welcome. As the fashion world focuses more on sustainability and diversity issues, a more measured tempo and a stronger emphasis on gender inclusivity could prove beneficial.
On the 29th of September, at 3 PM Central European Summer Time, Michelle’s first appearance on the runway for Valentino during the Spring/Summer 2025 Fashion Week in Paris will take place.
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2024-09-13 00:25