You’ve Been Guessing Cordelia’s Secret All Wrong!

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Experienced Emmy-winning costume designer Lyn Paolo is accustomed to creating costumes in the make-believe setting of the White House, having previously worked on Shondaland’s “Scandal” and “The West Wing.” Yet, the series “The Residence,” by Paul William Davies, presented a fresh, distinct challenge for the designer.

As a costume designer, I would describe the process as an engaging jigsaw challenge, as it involves a multitude of components – various characters, settings, and props – in this case, different White House rooms. This is what I shared with The Hollywood Reporter.

In this TV series, Uzo Aduba and Randall Park play a detective pair tasked with unraveling the murder of A.B. Wynter, the chief usher, who met his end during the busiest night for staff – the White House State Dinner. Uzo Aduba takes the lead as Cordelia Cupp, an investigator for the Metropolitan Police Department. FBI Special Agent Edwin Park, portrayed by Randall Park, teams up with Cupp in this case. The series follows these detectives as they explore different rooms and possibly hidden passages to piece together the sequence of events that led to Wynter’s death. They interact with various staff members such as chefs, butlers, and guests, including guest star Kylie Minogue, along their investigative journey.

Many famous detectives have previously appeared on screen, such as Miss Marple and Hercule Poirot from Agatha Christie’s works, Sherlock Holmes, Matlock, and the more recent Benoit Blanc from Knives Out. It was crucial for the show to find the right appearance for Aduba’s Cordelia, both for the character and for the series. However, it was equally important to create a look that not only reflected the traditional detective style of the 1930s but also captured the unique, quirky personality of Cordelia.

Aduba shared with THR, “I realized we were forming a bond through the script and her wardrobe as we went through fittings to find that jacket. I recognized that she was entering a world where her appearance would be unlike anyone else living there, but it also symbolized who she is. She’s never blended in, and it seemed like something she embraces.

As I sit down for an interview with THR, I share my excitement about breathing fresh life into a contemporary detective character for Netflix’s intriguing whodunit series. And, of course, let’s not forget the fun part – designing the stylish costumes!

Uzo Aduba’s Detective Cordelia Cupp

Initially, Paolo mentioned that they experimented with numerous versions of Cordelia Cupp’s character. Since she was an avid admirer of murder mysteries, the costume designer delved into pictures from the golden age of mystery, emphasizing traditional detective appearances such as those found in shows like Midsommar Murder, Miss Marple, Sherlock, or the TV series Columbo, which represented the classic detective look.

During our discussions, we experimented with various styles on Uzo’s character. We decided to go with a trench coat since it’s a classic element in detective attire. Then, an idea struck me – I expressed my unusual fascination with British field jackets to Paul. To my surprise, he too found the concept intriguing, considering Aduba’s Cordelia is an avid birder and, in a sense, is always ‘hunting’ for a killer. The British field jacket also symbolized Cordelia’s unique approach to solving mysteries.

Paolo remarks, ‘Instead of the trench coat, we opted for something more captivating,'” or simply, “Paolo comments, ‘We chose something more intriguing than the trench coat.’

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A post shared by Lyn Elizabeth Paolo (@lynpaolo)

Apart from her jacket, Uzo’s character Cordelia often donned a V-neck sweater. She also favored clothing with avian themes, such as tops adorned with small birds. Similarly, Paolo discovered trousers reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn and Max Mara brogues featuring front tassels. Impressed, he declared, “I feel like this is it. This is Cordelia.”

Or

In addition to her jacket, Uzo’s character Cordelia usually wore a V-neck sweater and had a preference for clothing with bird motifs, such as shirts adorned with small birds. Paolo also found trousers resembling Audrey Hepburn’s style and Max Mara brogues with front tassels. Excited by the find, he exclaimed, “I feel like this is it. This is Cordelia.”

Both versions aim to convey the same information in a more natural and easy-to-read manner.

The story unfolds during a grand state dinner at the White House where many elegant attendees wore formal gowns and suits. It was important that Cordelia be distinct yet fitting, so we dressed her in business attire rather than outdoor wear to achieve this balance. As Paolo explains, “We wanted her to blend subtly with the surroundings, but also stand out. So when she’s among the gentlemen, they are either in tuxedos or suits. If they’re FBI agents, she can easily fit in.

Paolo found it challenging to design the show’s costumes, as the White House boasts numerous colorful rooms. He needed to carefully choose colors for Cordelia’s outfit to ensure she didn’t blend in with the surroundings.

In the role as a costume designer, I found it to be an intriguing puzzle, much like piecing together a jigsaw. You have numerous elements, characters, and settings to consider, which ultimately led us to the selection of burnt orange tweed for Cordelia’s outfits,” she explains.

The consideration of comfort was crucial, considering Cordelia swiftly delves into solving the mystery over a single night. “Regardless of where you finally decide, remember to keep in mind that your actors must have room to move,” Paolo notes. “Cordelia is quite active. She kneels and crawls on the floor, so whatever she eventually uses must allow her to move freely and feel natural, while also ensuring her comfort for her feet.

Paolo found an ad showcasing Max Mara brogues that reminded him of the 1930s with their unique charm – a style he hadn’t seen before. Excited, he exclaimed, “Wow, these are incredible!” Unfortunately, those specific shoes were out of stock. However, Paolo was impressed when Max Mara decided to produce an additional five pairs for the collection instead.

She explains that it was a circular journey. They kept discussing and brainstorming, aiming to create an image that would be distinctive for a female detective, while also being unique. After all, this character isn’t like Matlock; she’s a fresh take on the detective role.

We presented her with an expression that suggested she was prepared to become an exceptional detective, while still maintaining her unique style. I adore the outcome. Both Uzo and Paul were thrilled. So, this is our small tribute, but with a fresh take on it,” she concludes.

Aduba expressed similar feelings, attributing the style to what finally clarified her character’s identity for her. “It reminded me of classic detective storytelling, yet it had a contemporary edge,” Aduba explained during an individual interview with THR regarding her character’s appearance. “The jacket was like her superhero cape. Everything clicked for me in that instant.

In Davies’ own words to THR, he mentioned that iconic detectives often have a distinct attribute that instantly identifies them – be it a hat, suit, or something else. For Cordelia, he aimed for a similar identity, but one that stemmed organically from her character. After exploring various possibilities, there was a particular choice that stood out as the perfect fit for Cordelia. He recalled the day they arrived at this decision, and later made minor tweaks, but it was then when he exclaimed, “That’s it! That’s Cordelia! That feels right!” He believes it has left an indelible mark, just as he intended.

Randall Park’s FBI Special Agent Edwin Park 

To dress Park’s Edwin, the FBI agent needed to distinguish himself from other men in suits, whether they were part of the White House staff or Australian visitors, while still harmonizing with Cordelia.

Paolo remarked, “Randall wasn’t your typical FBI agent. He needed to stand out a bit more,” he said. “We speculated, ‘Perhaps he wasn’t on an official mission and decided to wear a suit that was unusual for him.’ It was a striking teal blue, a blend of blue and green. Paul found this idea intriguing, and it complemented Uzo’s color scheme exceptionally well.

White House Staff

The series begins at a grand state dinner held at the White House, attended not just by staff members, but also numerous guests. Creating an appropriate outfit for each character was no simple task, according to Paolo. However, he emphasized that it was essential to find a distinct characteristic that would set the characters apart and give them “a unique costume shape or detail” that allowed them to “stand out among everyone else.

She describes how challenging it was due to numerous factors. For instance, there was a state dinner where most attendees would be wearing black. Her aim was to make the women stand out by having them wear metallic colors such as gold and bronze. The rest of the guests were to wear earth tones. This was crucial because even the butlers were in black, so great care was taken to ensure that their silhouettes were distinct from the guests’.

Midway through the storyline, Molly Griggs’ character, Lily, makes a decision to overhaul the entire White House. Upon their return, Cordelia and Edwin notice that not only have the rooms been redecorated, but the staff’s uniforms have also changed. This double transformation presents a significant challenge for Paolo, who views adjusting direction as an invigorating experience. She elaborates, “Halfway through the narrative, Molly Griggs’ character, Lily, decides to completely revamp the entire residence. When we come back, all the uniforms have been updated. So it was a double-edged challenge. We went from the Australians and Americans, followed by an extravagant state dinner, then suddenly, a complete transformation of the residence itself. This change presented a twofold hurdle.

Kylie Minogue

Kylie Minogue makes an appearance in the show, portraying herself, and attends the state dinner. However, when the initial performer couldn’t make it, she was asked to give a performance instead. Paolo, who worked with her, finds her electrifying and delightful.

In the show, Minogue wasn’t scheduled to perform, but Paolo had the task of dressing her for both a guest appearance and potential performance: “How can you find a balance between what one would wear to a formal event at the White House without being too dramatic, since you’re not there as an artist, but simply as yourself? Yet, how do we create something that, when you step on stage, is visually engaging and more like a performer’s outfit?” The answer was fringe. Paolo described that to provide her with a look that could swiftly transition her from casual to stage-ready, he added fringe to the dress, thus offering “the best of both worlds.” “When she’s standing still, interacting with people, she’s just wearing a gown. But when she’s on stage, it has a dynamic movement and energy. She handled it wonderfully!

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Currently, “The Residence” is available for streaming on Netflix. You might want to check out THR’s first interview with Paul William Davies discussing the production of The Residence and its finale, as well as featuring actors Uzo Aduba and Randall Park.

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2025-03-26 20:55