Yohji Yamamoto SS25 Makes Art From the Cutting Room Floor

Yohji Yamamoto SS25 Makes Art From the Cutting Room Floor

As a connoisseur of fashion who has spent countless hours poring over the pages of Vogue and traipsing through the cobblestone streets of Paris during Fashion Week, I must say that Yohji Yamamoto‘s Spring 2025 collection left me absolutely spellbound. This Japanese master craftsman is no stranger to pushing boundaries and challenging conventions, but this time he outdid himself.


In Paris’ City Hall Hotel, renowned Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto unveiled his Spring 2025 collection within the Salons de l’Hotel De Ville. The collection was a stunning blend of tethering, manipulation, reconstruction, and layering, all aimed at evoking the spirit of his creative muse’s inner child. He affectionately referred to his designs as “broken outfits,” due to their intentionally disheveled and patched-together appearance, each piece carefully crafted to convey an air of carelessness.

At Paris Fashion Week, Yamamoto’s newest fashion statement—a fusion of classic Japanese tailoring and modern design techniques—was received by the elite crowd. The collection featured black dresses with sheer elements that seemed to challenge bold red strings; maroon pieces captivated attendees with elaborate cut-outs and lace bodices, while some gowns resembled unfinished puzzles due to random fabric patches scattered across the body. This was set against a backdrop of music by Pavel Koesnikov, featuring works by Bach, Gluck, Ravel, Japanese tiles, and Leonard Cohen’s “You Want It Darker.

In this setting, Yamamoto freely discarded any conventional fashion guidelines, blending knotted threads, luxurious textures, chunks of cotton, and patterned prints into unique outfits. It seemed like he gathered the finest items from his workshop’s leftovers and transformed them into artistic masterpieces. The disorganized output was quite somber, predominantly utilizing a nearly monochromatic color scheme. However, the final group of pieces—dresses flowing gracefully and sleeveless jackets among them—radiated brilliant red. With only 43 outfits, the collection’s vibrant finale left you longing for more; luckily, those eager for a second performance can look forward to Yamamoto releasing a new book in collaboration with M/M Paris this coming Sunday.

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2024-09-29 14:25