As a seasoned sneaker enthusiast with over two decades of experience under my belt, I’ve witnessed the evolution of the sneaker world from its humble beginnings to the multi-billion dollar industry it is today. The re-release of legendary sneakers like the Nike Dunk High “Wu-Tang,” UNDEFEATED x Air Jordan 4, and Nike Air Force 1 Low “PlayStation” has left me feeling a bit nostalgic, yet also a tad weary.
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Speaking about the launch of Sneaker Freaker in 2002, its founder Simon “Woody” Wood recounts that the prospect of re-releasing shoes from two decades prior consistently sparked enthusiasm. However, he reflects on the current situation, where it seems we’ve been repeating this cycle for another 20 years, leaving him to wonder, “How many times have we witnessed the Air Max 90 ‘Infrared’ make a comeback?
In a fresh take, Perry Shum, the founder of IMAGE NY, a sneaker resale store, expresses enthusiasm about reintroducing classic shoe models to the public. He explains that the newer generation has primarily encountered these shoes through images and old articles, not having had direct experience with them in the past. This revival is thrilling for him as it allows these stories to be retold.
Nike’s current sales strategy, which heavily leverages their past designs, has maxed out the potential from their retro shoe styles. However, the company appears to be grappling with rekindling its innovative spirit, demonstrated by the change of CEO to John Donahoe. Instead, they seem to focus on recreating their most iconic and prestigious lifestyle releases from their archives, reaching for the top-tier products in an attempt to maintain market relevance.
Woody comments that, in both the business and sneaker communities, it’s widely recognized that Nike has fallen out of favor recently due to a lack of innovation. When they introduced the ‘Cult Classics’ series, which is essentially re-releases of popular designs, it didn’t sit well with people.
This fatigue has pushed collectors in other directions — Perry, for example, is a lifelong Nike fan but notes that he often finds himself wearing ASICS and other runners. Meanwhile, Woody takes great joy in “finding a shoe that everyone hates on and then wearing it pretty hard.”
Fervent collectors might feel disillusioned upon realizing that they’ve invested substantial resources into acquiring rare items, only for those items to be re-released. However, Shum, whose business revolves around providing these coveted items, acknowledges the significance of their return, even if he doesn’t personally appreciate it. “Many of the older shoes are no longer in a wearable state now,” he concedes, “so it is significant for those who desire to wear them rather than viewing them as investments.
Looking back two decades, brands typically produced just 500 pairs of shoes for each collaboration. This small production volume enabled individuals to experiment and innovate beyond established norms.
Collaborations that were once fresh and innovative have lost their luster, causing Nike to lean on re-releases instead. The reason is straightforward – the size of these collaborative projects has expanded so much that brands can no longer take the risks that initially made them unique. As Woody explains, “Twenty years ago, a brand might only produce 500 pairs per collaboration, enabling creators to experiment. Since you could create something unconventional without worrying about selling thousands of units as you do now, you could afford to be daring with colors or materials.” Essentially, collaborations have shifted from being creative outlets to significant business indicators.
In a nutshell, collaborations aimed at boosting profits often lean towards being “safe,” catering to a broad audience rather than offering novelty or creativity. A recent instance from the past decade that fits this description is Travis Scott’s initial redesign of the Air Jordan 1 sneaker. At first, the innovative twist seemed groundbreaking; however, with multiple iterations now released, it has led to market saturation: consumers have diminished incentives to purchase regular Air Jordan 1s when they can anticipate the next limited edition drop instead.
Woody argues that JJJJound has not produced an intriguing shoe in quite some time, yet they continue to receive opportunities for collaborations as if this is the norm. He wonders if this is truly what we expect from partnerships. In other words, it seems that Nike is taking a shortcut by reviving the Wu-Tang Dunks collaboration once more.
“You can’t see [the return of the Wu-Tang Dunks] as anything other than a cash grab.”
With only 36 sets produced, the original Wu-Tang Dunks stand as a testament to how rarity can elevate prestige. Created in 1999, these sneakers are essentially enhanced versions of the “Iowa” Dunk, featuring additional embroidery that acknowledges the Wu-Tang Clan. Remarkably, some enthusiasts have paid up to $50,000 USD for a pair. To Woody, they’re not just shoes – they belong in museums like the Smithsonian, not on an app like SNKRS. He believes that reissuing them is more about making money than meeting demand: “Who would even want it back? You can’t view it as anything other than a cash grab.
Despite the negative stigmas and dilution of history in pursuit of profit, there’s a silver lining involved with each re-release. “These nostalgic drops can remind people why they fell in love with sneakers. Bringing back customers who may have branched out into other brands is key,” says Perry.
As a dedicated enthusiast, I’m feeling a bit drained and disenchanted by the endless stream of product launches flooding the market these days. Shoes pile up on store shelves, the secondary market has peaked, and it seems that new releases are quickly forgotten once they hit the streets. Even high-profile collaborations like Louis Vuitton x Nike, adidas with Gucci and Prada, feel stale. The Air Force 1 and Air Jordan 1, which were once the talk of the town, now seem to have lost their shine. It’s as if we’ve reached a saturation point where everyone is left wondering what the next big thing will be, according to Woody.
In the anticipation for the upcoming industry transformation, these re-released products will continue to be significant for Nike, whether it’s met with approval or not. As Woody points out, “It’s a matter of perspective: some might view it as a mere money grab, while others see it as an opportunity to purchase a shoe they’ve always admired but never had the chance to own.
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2024-10-08 00:56