As a fervent admirer of Vivienne Westwood and her revolutionary spirit, I was utterly captivated by Andreas Kronthaler‘s tribute to the late Dame at Paris Fashion Week. His Spring 2025 collection encapsulated the essence of Westwood’s ethos, blending femininity, elegance, and a dash of rebellion in a way that only Westwood could.
Redefine Your Existence! This phrase was famously uttered by the late Dame Vivienne Westwood, and it served as the title for her online journal which she started in 2010, later published in print six years after. During a fashion event in Paris over the weekend, this slogan became the inspiration for Andreas Kronthaler’s designs, who is both the widower of Westwood and the brand’s creative director. His work seeks to celebrate and build upon the legacy of its pioneering founder.
In his Spring 2025 collection notes, the designer expressed that life, with its highs and lows, is a thing of beauty and should be given purpose. He found this meaning by creating ultra-feminine and extravagantly elegant fashion designs. As he stated, “This season’s focus was on women’s clothing, leading me down a different path.” This new direction was more subdued (for a Westwood collection) as it featured fewer prints, delicate knitwear, an overall sense of lightness, and a reduced color palette, without the usual vibrant bursts of red and pink.
In the current collection notes, Kronthaler referenced a quote by Philipp Ekardt: “Perhaps without fashion, pure sexuality might fade away. To put it another way: fashion exists because there isn’t enough raw sexuality.” This new Vivienne Westwood manifesto emphasized its sensual aspect, largely through the designs’ necklines, as stated by the designer.
Elegant blouses, majestic dresses, smart jackets, and satin jumpsuits revealed collarbones through oval and V-shaped openings. Many pieces in the collection featured translucent fabrics, offering a full view of the torso. Meanwhile, voluminous skirts, striking belts, and crystal-adorned waistbands accentuated women’s figures gracefully.
Despite the playful elements like headphones, cigarettes, and large chain necklaces, Kronthaler’s designs maintained an undeniable elegance, showcased in tailored double-breasted suits, sleek pencil skirts, and intricate organza headpieces. This balance between sophistication and entertainment was a defining characteristic of the label.
Fashion embodies both beauty and happiness, serving as a connection point among people, an aspect that significantly impacts our shared existence. Remarkably, Vivienne Westwood discovered a balanced stance encompassing both these elements.
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2024-09-29 15:26