Bianca Saunders FW25 Exists in Dichotomies

As a devoted admirer, I can’t help but marvel at the remarkable impact British-Jamaican designer Bianca Saunders has made in the realm of menswear. Her distinctive, androgynous style is a breathtaking exploration of parallels, a theme that resonates profoundly through her work. Titled “Dichotomy,” her Fall 2025 collection continues this captivating journey, delving into the intricate relationship between movement and constraint – two seemingly opposing forces that, when harmoniously blended, give birth to something entirely novel. In her collection notes, she elegantly described these contrasting elements as “two opposing forces that, when combined, create something entirely new.

In the process of creating her design, Saunders found herself captivated by the concept of repeated movements in Jamaican male dancers’ routines, as she observed that these seemingly simple sequences could combine to produce an elaborate, deliberate, and harmonious dance routine.

In her design approach, Saunders emphasized the wrinkles and folds that garments acquire through dance on contemporary shirts with angular cuts and fitted tops with ripples, and intentionally modified her classic silhouettes from past collections, such as her iconic wide-legged Manner pants with a bow detail and long-sleeve tops featuring a Y-neckline.

Additionally, they collaborated with artist Shanti Bell, a prior associate in the The Missing Thread exhibition at Somerset House, to design the rigid collection for the line. The intention was to generate tension through limited model movements, which visually showcases the contrast between freedom and constraint and celebrates movement itself. According to Bell, this collaboration aimed to visually represent the paradox of liberty and restraint.

The intricacies and complexities woven throughout the collection gave rise to a palpable tension: trousers took on distorted shapes, while bags were knotted tightly, reflecting the strictness reminiscent of artist Steven Parrino’s shredded and fragmented canvases. Meanwhile, Robert Longo’s “Men in the Cities” photographic series served as inspiration for the line’s harmonious blend of feminine styles with traditional work attire, symbolizing the most straightforward embodiment of the collection’s dual title.

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