Collectors: Luca Benini’s Archive of the Global Underground

Intriguingly enough, delving into the process of curating the Umbro collection with Slam Jam was like embarking on a historical expedition, merging football passion with British heritage and working-class charm. The collaboration, christened “Penalty Culture,” was an exhilarating journey that mirrored the intensity of a penalty shootout – a moment that unites people across cultures, much like how we unite through clothing and translate sportswear into a lifestyle.

Luca Benini didn’t have traditional ties to the fashion world, but considering his influence since launching Slam Jam, a cult clothing store and label, in 1989, this seems surprising. Benini shares, “I hail from a small town near Ferrara, practically in the middle of nowhere.” His fascination with clothes and people’s styles has been innate. Just as music pulled him in, it has significantly influenced his tastes, from disco and house to electronic and hip hop. For over three decades now, Benini has transformed into a magnetic force himself, attracting customers and trendsetters worldwide, as he continues to create clothing with an “Attitude for the Global Underground,” a motto that defines his brand.

Slam Jam initially began as a straightforward clothing supplier, yet rapidly transformed into a bustling hub for streetwear in the bustling streets of Milan during the ’90s. Today, this versatile brand, store, and “cultural vault” still thrives. Collaborations have been a consistent aspect, including partnerships with brands like Nike, Converse, and Salomon, as well as academic endeavors that delve deep, such as the jointly initiated graduate program on Street Culture and Fashion Design at Università Iuav di Venezia (IUAV), and an ongoing project with ILL-STUDIO, known as the ATTENTION DEFICIT DISORDER PROSTHETIC MEMORY PROGRAM (ADDPMP).

In a time overflowing with visual content and data, this project, initiated in 2020, was particularly timely to assist individuals in “sorting and structuring your ideas,” as Thomas Subreville of ILL-STUDIO had explained to Hypeart earlier. Today, Slam Jam still provides a platform for influential fashion labels such as OAMC, Carhartt WIP, mfpen, KAPITAL, and District Vision, shaping the cultural elite’s perception.

In every collaboration, Benini has had the privilege of mixing circles with several rising stars in both art and design, amassing a number of his preferred works for his private collection. Some standouts are a five-panel set of Supreme’s “Last Supper” skate decks, priced at approximately $12,000 on eBay currently. Other remarkable pieces include a sculpture of a phallic rock by Herman Makkink, which made an appearance in Stanley Kubrick’s “A Clockwork Orange” (1972) and an oval parody painting by FUCT founder Erik Brunetti. Benini shares that all the artworks he owns are acquired through working with the artists, whom he deeply respects not only as artists but also as individuals. Hypeart recently spoke with the Slam Jam leader to discuss some of his most cherished pieces from his personal collection and touch upon some of the significant Slam Jam projects on the horizon.

Collectors: Luca Benini’s Archive of the Global Underground

“The underground is more of an attitude today.”

Do you remember when and what opened your eyes to art?

Indeed, the realm of graffiti was not only a place but also a community I found myself deeply immersed in since its inception. It expanded my horizons like an endless cosmos.

Growing up in Ferrara felt like stepping into a tranquil pocket of Italy, distinctly different from the vibrant energy of cities like Turin and Milan where I’ve since established a store. I’d love to share some memories of my childhood surroundings, the subcultures that resonated deeply with me, and how they influenced my passion for disco, fashion, art, and design.

I hail from a tranquil hamlet nestled on the outskirts of Ferrara, almost secluded. My fascination with clothing and styles has been an innate trait that I can’t quite explain. Music, too, has been instrumental in shaping my preferences and curiosity. The ‘riviera romagnola’ and its vibrant club scene have left a lasting impact on me, serving as key markers in my journey of self-discovery.

What musical acts (bands, DJs), time frame, or genre from the early years of SLAM JAM had the most significant influence on you?

In my musical journey, I was particularly influenced by two genres: dance and rock/underground music. Let’s delve into dance first. The era spanning from 1979 to 1988 left an indelible impression on me. It encompassed disco, New Wave, and electronic music. Hip hop also caught my attention during this time, particularly when Beastie Boys released their groundbreaking album “License to Ill” in 1986. This album holds special significance for me, as did the emergence of house music.

Collectors: Luca Benini’s Archive of the Global Underground

How about we chat today? Could you tell me some fresh talents or established groups whose work keeps inspiring the creative path at SLAM JAM?

I’m not quite certain, as I find most popular genres like hip hop, trap, and house feel very mainstream and don’t particularly appeal to me. Instead, my preference lies in discovering lesser-known artists. Music is always a source of inspiration for me. Today, the underground scene represents more of an attitude than visibility; we strive to find it, but its authentic expression can be elusive.

Could you share some thoughts about the origins of SLAM JAM, the initial aspirations you had for the business, and how it, along with your artistic pursuits, has developed and transformed throughout the years as you fostered and predicted trends at the crossroads of music, fashion (before streetwear became a common term), art, and design?

For me, the primary elements are fashion (clothes) and music – these are my expressions of art. Additionally, they both require significant amounts of creative problem-solving, or design thinking.

Are we now living in a time when the concept of an underground scene appears obsolete? It seems that all subcultural niches are present, in one form or another, on a level playing field – the level of social media – where anyone, anywhere, can be continuously connected at any hour of the day.

To me, it definitely resonates. In earlier times, being underground meant having limited accessibility and visibility. Nowadays, it’s more about a certain mindset and approach towards life. It’s fascinating to consider that one can maintain an understated presence while preserving the spirit of the underground, much like Pink Floyd did.

Collectors: Luca Benini’s Archive of the Global Underground

“Dig deep into yourself to understand your deepest desires and stay true to that.”

In their collaboration with ILL-STUDIO on the ADDPMP project, Slam Jam found the focus to be predominantly educational due to several compelling factors.

In 2017, I crossed paths with someone remarkable at the unveiling of Spazio Maiocchi, our Milanese cultural center. Our conversation veered away from fashion, delving into realms as diverse as music, history, cinema, and more. Inspired by this shared passion, we embarked on a project that seamlessly melded clothing with other disciplines, creating a unique fusion of lifestyles in a book – a venture that led to a second publication. This endeavor essentially translated the YouTube ultimate algorithm into a tangible form, making it a timeless resource where thoughts and ideas can be jotted down for future reference.

Your recent Umbro collaboration is one of the best of the year. The silhouettes of the models in the clothing look reminiscent of medieval crusaders. Can you talk about the process of bringing that collection together?

As a passionate gamer, I couldn’t contain my enthusiasm when it came to collaborating with the legendary brand Umbro, a name deeply rooted in two passions close to my heart – football and the unique charm of British culture. With its strong connection to the working class, I felt an immediate kinship with this iconic brand.

Could you share with us your unique approach to arranging items in your home, such as artworks, sculptures, and furniture? Let’s take a peek into the way you curate your personal gallery.

The majority of these items were once part of my private collection, obtained either directly from artists I have a relationship with or through connections with fellow art enthusiasts. I don’t typically acquire art impulsively; instead, I obtain pieces by collaborating with the artist, individuals whom I deeply respect not only for their artistic skills but also as people.

As a devoted fan, I couldn’t help but feel a thrill when it came to the rich legacy of a brand as iconic as Umbro. With its strong ties to both football and UK culture, it resonated deeply with my passions. Given its close association with the working class, I eagerly anticipated our interaction. The dialogue between us began a few years ago, leading us to coin the term “Penalty Culture.” This term encapsulates the powerful unity that emerges during a penalty shootout – a moment not for relaxation, but for intense focus, especially for Italian football enthusiasts like myself.

We also thought about how people unite through clothes and translate sportswear into a lifestyle. Clothing wise, we started with trench coats and denim, eventually included jester hats and medieval things to play on heritage and history.

Are there any projects or collaborations in the near future you can give a sneak peak about?

Starting late 2025, we’ll unveil a versatile space in the heart of Milan. We’re also teaming up with Tintoria Emiliana, an iconic Italian dyeing firm known for its sustainable practices and collaborations with global fashion giants. Additionally, expect a Slam Jam embassy situated outside Milan, showcasing our essence and unique projects – but more details on that will be shared at a later time.

Could you share the most valuable piece of wisdom you’ve received, and if you don’t mind, I’d also appreciate your thoughts on guidance for future generations.

My primary recommendation is to delve deeply within you to uncover your most profound aspirations, and remain steadfast in adhering to them. Persevere through challenges as they arise.

All photos courtesy of Luca Benini and Slam Jam.

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