Last Friday night, I brought together some of New York City’s most stylish and vibrant individuals in a Chelsea studio to showcase a collection that embodies and amplifies femininity in all its shapes and forms. This season, Collina Strada is stepping into edgier territory with our Fall/Winter 2025 line, aptly titled “Fempire.” This collection emphasizes the connection between women of the past, present, and future, highlighting both the challenges we face today and a longing for a more fluid and free-spirited tomorrow.
The initial phrases in the show’s introduction are: “Matriarchy, Gynecocracy, Queen-dom, Her-archy, She-volution…” These words effectively establish a theme for the display of clothing that gracefully walk down a pristine white runway, with King Princess, Ella Elmhoff, Cole Sprouse, Law Roach, and Dove Cameron seated in the front row.
The show’s introduction uses words like “Matriarchy,” “Gynecocracy,” etc., to hint at a strong female theme. The clothes are presented on a white runway, and famous figures like King Princess, Ella Elmhoff, Cole Sprouse, Law Roach, and Dove Cameron were in the front row watching.
Actually, Taymour invites me to leave the simple, enclosed space we’ve been in – a space that followed a more spacious “playroom,” filled with children wearing miniature Collina attire, playing freely with their toys and coloring.
In light of the Doomsday Clock nearing its midnight hour, the show invites us to envision a transformed world. A world where power shifts laterally and compassion becomes the new currency. This is a world that doesn’t just overturn outdated traditions but completely rewrites the rules, keeping what is beneficial while reshaping the rest. This is a world where unrestrained femininity, queer identity, and disability are not fought against but celebrated. Here, what was once deemed excessive or unfit for mainstream acceptance becomes the very essence of our future.
For the brand “Fempire,” Taymour scoured numerous thrift stores in New Jersey, searching for vintage wedding dresses. Through the perspective of Collina, he reinterpreted these heirlooms, stating that it was a way to honor the women who came before us by making their legacy relevant today. Two brides, one wearing the latest Collina Strada x PUMA Mostro collaboration, strutted down the runway and paused briefly to share a wedding kiss.
The design embodies a comprehensive portrayal of femininity, blending delicate Collina chiffons, silks, and satins with heavier materials like wool and corduroy for outerwear. All pieces focus on the ease of movement, demonstrated through skillful layering, draping, and textural contrasts such as lace paired with denim or ruffles extending to footwear. The color palette leans towards the darker side, but vibrant patterns like plaid, leopard-print, tartan, and floral details in pastels can still be found on blouses, trousers, and skirts made from organza and other light fabrics.
Until now, we’ve been preparing for what’s ahead, but the show reminds us to focus on the present moment. We don the necessary armor, securing our protective gear, and ready our defensive barriers – masks and shields. The 36 looks convey a subtle yet powerful message of resilience. Bottling up our emotions, transforming them into something stronger. Raising our unique flags high, while understanding that at times, concealment can be key to survival.
Initially, the “Pillow Coat” graced the runway, boasting an expansive, structured hood. Some other ensembles featured balaclavas on top. Models adorned themselves with oversized glasses that resembled alien eyes, while others opted for protective headgear instead. A particular accessory, a star-shaped head wrap, was seen alongside several outfits, even one of the brides, symbolizing the concept of “Fempire.
Femininity is not a rulebook; it’s a complex mix of stunning paradoxes – strong yet tender, mysterious yet radiant, guarded yet nurturing, boldly open and stylish. Stake your claim as a means to create space for others. Be the shining light that you are.
Explore Collina Strada’s Fall/Winter 2025 “Fempire” in the runway images above and take a look backstage with photographer Sarah Schecker below.
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2025-02-08 02:56