As someone who has spent countless hours scrolling through food influencer content, I can’t help but marvel at their power and impact on the culinary world. However, having witnessed firsthand the struggles of local eateries grappling with viral fame, I can’t help but feel a pang of sympathy for these unsuspecting businesses.
On August 23rd, food content creator Kevin Noparvar (@how.kev.eats) shared a review of the recently opened Danny Boy’s Pizza in Westwood. In his car, he savored cheese and pepperoni slices, praising it as “one of the best pizzas I’ve had in L.A.” By the time of publication, this video had garnered 2.2 million views on TikTok and an additional 1 million views on Instagram.
Two weeks down the line, I found myself saying, “Man, it turns out I wasn’t the only one who was popular here. The boss [chef Daniel Holzman] had to bring on more hands because we were churning out pizzas faster than a hot pizza oven! There simply weren’t enough spaces to keep up with the orders pouring in.” And let me tell you, I’ve got plenty more tales like this one.
Food influencers are shaping the eating habits in Hollywood, deciding what’s trendy or essential to eat by posting just one video. Noparvar, with 3.4 million TikTok followers, is among the prominent social media food personalities in L.A., such as Rick Lox and Jack’s Dining Room, who are significantly altering the city’s dining culture.
@how.kev.eats
This was some of the best Pizza I’ve had in LA 📍Danny Boy’s Pizza #foodreview #mukbang
♬ original sound – how.kev.eats
Jack Goldburg, the man behind the scenes at @jacksdiningroom with over a million followers on both TikTok and Instagram, has witnessed numerous instances of restaurants gaining immense popularity following his reviews. For instance, Le Coupe in Larchmont had to expand their staff by three people and extend their operating hours due to his endorsement, while Santa Monica’s Layla Bagels and the beloved West L.A. taco stand Brothers Cousins also experienced a significant surge in customers as a result of Goldburg’s recommendations.
Goldburg explains, “It’s a mutually beneficial arrangement. They’re thrilled to have us taste their dishes and share our experiences, and they appreciate the content we create. Once our content is published, they often attract a crowd.” He also highlights that “it’s crucial for me that we never disseminate negativity. If we don’t find something appealing, we won’t feature it, especially when dealing with smaller businesses.
Most of these creators prefer not to be labeled as food critics, yet Noparvar and Rick Lox rate restaurants from 1 to 10. Noparvar emphasizes his commitment to objectivity by refusing free meals and avoiding discussions with owners prior to a review. Adam Alper, the man behind the @ricklox account which boasts over 100,000 Instagram followers and 200,000 on TikTok, typically pays for his meals but if offered for free, he informs the restaurant in advance that his opinions will remain unbiased. If a restaurant is not comfortable with this honesty, he politely declines the invitation.
Alper acknowledges he doesn’t possess a culinary background comparable to critics like Jonathan Gold at the L.A. Times or Pete Wells at The New York Times. However, he believes that nowadays, people tend to rely more on food content creators rather than traditional food writers when making their dining choices.
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Rick Lox (@ricklox)
How do city restaurant owners feel about their businesses’ success potentially hinging on a 60-second social media clip? This question requires a more in-depth response.
Chef Dom Crisp, who runs The Lonely Oyster in Echo Park, used to think negatively about food influencers, viewing them as people who reap benefits from restaurants without putting in the work. However, after meeting some of these influencers, he humorously confesses, “I’ve undergone a transformation.
The chef acknowledges his readiness to collaborate with content creators in exchange for social media posts, attributing them to the power they possess in evoking a strong desire among people to experience the location.
Restaurant owners often find it challenging when their establishments gain popularity quickly. Even when reviews are favorable, many businesses struggle to handle the influx of customers that comes with sudden fame. As chef Johnny Ray Zone of trendy eatery Howlin’ Rays (with locations in Chinatown and Pasadena) notes, this is particularly tough for small restaurants accustomed to serving around 60 customers a day who then find themselves facing lines of over a thousand people.
Apollonia’s Pizzeria located in the heart of Mid-City stands out as an exemplary case, with various content makers, such as Dave Portnoy, the pizza king from Barstool, frequently praising it as one of Los Angeles’ best slices.
Justin De Leon, the chef and co-owner, remarks, ‘They warn you to be careful about what you wish for, and we’re currently grappling with that.’ Some customers view their pizzeria as leisurely yet potentially dangerous. During our peak hours, my team becomes overwhelmed, leading them to exclaim, ‘That’s enough!’ There seems to be no end, and when things get too hectic, it can make people question their long-term goals.
Apollonia’s used to be a popular neighborhood pizzeria, but after gaining viral attention on several occasions, De Leon lamented that “regrettably, we’ve lost many local customers due to the impact of reviews.” With lines frequently stretching down the block, he’s also encountered numerous content creators seeking free meals in exchange for posts, a practice he firmly opposes.
Some people might throw around the term ‘collaboration,’ but as far as I’m concerned, there’s nothing collaborative about it,” De Leon points out. “It’s more like someone offering a free meal… and in L.A., you never know who could turn out to be a harsh critic.
@jacksdiningroom
Attempting to savor what’s said to be the top bagel in LA 📍Layla Bagel
♬ original sound – Jack’s Dining Room
Regardless of the path they take, their influence is undeniable, and it seems food influencers such as Keith Lee aren’t losing steam. As Goldburg, who recently started his Yes Chef food festival in NYC this summer and aims to bring it to L.A. in 2025, states, “Sure, there are establishments that have earned their status with or without content creators, but there are countless others that remain unknown. With the right influencer creating content, a restaurant can suddenly become the latest hotspot. Videos can reach millions of people in just 24 hours – something no magazine, TV show, or other advertising medium could achieve in terms of immediate impact that these apps and individuals have managed to garner overnight.
This story appeared in the Oct. 9 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.
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2024-10-12 20:55