On Thursday in Paris, Issey Miyake‘s Fall 2025 menswear presentation delved into the intricate bond between human bodies and fabric. This collection was born from IM MEN, the brand’s male-focused division that debuted in 2021, led by designers Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara, and Nobutaka Kobayashi. Having recently emerged from its early stages, IM MEN took over Le Réfectoire des Cordeliers, a historical monastery dating back to the early 16th century, with a unique design philosophy that asserted itself on Paris’s fashion calendar for the first time.
On a pristine white runway, models deftly navigated around towering square structures that rotated gradually, giving an illusion of life and seeming to scrutinize the collection with their ‘eyes’. The designs were influenced by a humble piece of fabric as well. As the Japanese artist Tokujin Yoshioka put it, “When worn, [the cloth] transforms into a sculpture, blending traditional craftsmanship skills and advanced contemporary technology.
His work prepared the way for the progression of the transcendent line, which was divided into various sub-groups based on fabric type and form. The “Fly” collection used the frequently cut edge (selvage) to create coats that could be worn in different orientations depending on where the buttons were fastened. On the other hand, the “Flat Drape” segment focused on movement, featuring square shirts, coats, and pants that swayed and billowed as models walked, and the “Wall” series presented recycled polyester outerwear with reversible design elements and adaptable hoods.
As a devoted admirer, I’d like to share some intriguing details about IM’s latest creations. Their “Heron” line features voluminous coats crafted from fray-resistant Ultrasuede materials. Meanwhile, the “Switch” collection introduces coats and trousers made entirely from plant-based nylon fibers derived naturally from castor and corn. Lastly, their “Metallic Ultra Boa” division takes a futuristic approach with artificial sheepskin and foil printing techniques to infuse angular outerwear with an ethereal, alien allure.
In essence, Issey’s fabric was reimagined into stylish, harmonious, and textured clothing suitable for everyday wear. At the climax, models wearing solely black-and-white attires hastily exited, ready to embrace life in these creations.
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2025-01-24 03:56