Kiko Kostadinov FW25 Ushers In a New, Raw Era

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Kiko Kostadinov‘s Fall 2025 collection signified a change in the aesthetic language of this London-based, Bulgarian designer: he moved away from his classic minimalist style, embracing instead a more rugged sensibility characterized by looser, textured, and irregular clothing pieces.

The design of this collection showcases a deliberate imbalance, where coats, shirts, and pants are intentionally asymmetrical, and multiple silhouettes combine to give the appearance of layering. In other parts, the rigidity and structure of traditional Hungarian and Bulgarian military clothing influenced the design. Additionally, the artwork of Kon Trubkovich served as inspiration for Kostadinov’s innovative textile techniques, and vibrant shades of orange, yellow, and cerulean were used throughout the color palette.

Illustrations inspired by coins and trinkets were delicately embroidered on coats, while check patterns boldly adorned trousers with an apron-like style. Large leather belts attracted attention due to their length and the oversized scarves; black leather gloves seemed oversized under thick knits, and crossbody bags became popular with dyed pony hair. On their feet, models showcased a new collaboration with Asics, which paid homage to the Japanese sports label’s marathon shoes from the 1950s.

Even though there was a change in fashion trends, Kostadinov’s menswear remained humble; people are especially attracted to his work due to its understated charm. His show notes started with a quote from the 1988 Hungarian film Damnation, which encapsulated this perfectly: “I hold onto nothing, but everything holds onto me.

 

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2025-01-25 20:56