Ludovic de Saint Sernin named his interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture as the eighth, and youngest, designer to direct the prestigious workshop for a single season.
The name “Shipwreck” originated from the inspiration drawn from Mylène Farmer and Seal’s music video for “Les Mots,” where they performed their dramatic duet on a raft amidst turbulent waters, as well as an eerie boat-shaped headpiece designed by Gaultier in 1997. Like his namesake designer, Saint Sernin navigated sartorial landscapes of sensual sophistication and fierce otherworldliness in his creations.
In this debut attempt at haute couture, de Saint Sernin blended timeless elegance with a forward-thinking vision. The collection showcased pieces that were as classical as structured feathered gowns adorned with delicate, sheer underlayers, yet as modern as sleek, leathery, latex dresses that gracefully flowed over the body in undulating patterns reminiscent of a mermaid’s movement. The models on the runway brought the designer’s muses to life, portraying an array of characters such as seductive pirates, aristocratic patricians, and enigmatic sirens. This collection paid homage to Gaultier’s imaginative fashion narratives.
On the runway, Saint Sernin’s mystical models donned intricately knitted gowns that subtly veiled the human figure and dresses adorned with ropes, featuring an illusionary nude finish. Guests of his royal ball accentuated their aristocratic attire with elaborate menswear corsets, crystal-studded slim dresses, lace wedding-style creations, and sensual transparent details throughout.
In this setting, there was a single ethereal figure adorned with golden wings and a strip of blue fabric wrapped around his midriff, seemingly acknowledging the divine Spring 2007 couture collection by Gaultier, which showcased various celestial interpretations of Renaissance angel artwork. Additionally, another equally sacred white dress was present, alluding to the iconic gown from the film “Absolument Fabuleux,” a 2001 French comedy where Gaultier himself directs a mock fashion show. It was evident that each ensemble held its unique narrative.
Regardless of the specific design, every model sported a sleek, disheveled, damp hairstyle – giving the impression they were adrift on the fantastical, hedonistic, and ethereal vessel created by de Saint Sernin. However, unlike the supposed doomed shipwreck, this collection cleverly reinterpreted the extensive Gaultier archive with great potential.
Glancing through the gallery up top, I’m struck by the vibrant Spring 2025 collection from Ludovic de Saint Sernin, channeling the innovative spirit of Jean Paul Gaultier. It’s a visual feast for gaming eyes!
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2025-01-30 17:26