As a long-time admirer of fashion with a soft spot for the eccentric and the extravagant, I find myself utterly captivated by Adrian Appiolaza’s creative journey at Moschino. Having grown up surrounded by the grandeur of Buenos Aires, it seems only fitting that his imaginative vision would find its fullest expression in a house steeped in Italian fashion history.
This year in January, Adrian Appiolaza was appointed as the creative director of Moschino; since then, with four seasonal collections completed, the designer from Buenos Aires is gradually bringing his inventive ideas for the Italian fashion brand to fruition. For his most recent creation, a versatile Pre-Fall 2025 collection, Appiolaza ventured to a villa outside of Milan, where Chris Rhodes, the photographer, captured a lookbook reminiscent of the British nobility.
On a spacious estate, the designer’s fashion ideology is displayed as both whimsical and serious. While formal wear is meticulously cut to fit the human body, boasting plaid sports jackets, woolen overcoats, corduroy pants, and straight dress pants that would be fitting for a grand event, there’s also an exuberant side. This is seen in the wild and vibrant prints that dominate knit dresses and button-up tops alike, featuring vintage smiley faces and cloud designs. The accessories echo the brand’s quirky history, with fluffy pom-pom scarves, bags shaped like top hats, and miniature books carried by models throughout the lookbook as evidence.
Appiolaza collaborated with Sanderson, a textile firm that has consistently provided fabrics, paints, and wallpapers to the Royal Residences since 1924, to design the intricate floral patterns seen on suits, dresses, and bow-tied tops. Simultaneously, straightforward landscape drawings, drawn from the archives of Franco Moschino, the founder of the brand, effortlessly bring a smile to your face when spotted on casual sweaters and large shirts.
In summary, Moschino’s Pre-Fall 2025 collection is both refined and ordinary, yet surprisingly captivating. For example, consider the final outfit: a simple sweater bearing the phrase “Hard Times” and an extravagant white skirt adorned with a vibrant yellow crown on top. This design cleverly explores the concept of nobility while embodying it at the same time.
See the full lineup in the gallery above.
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2024-12-03 19:26