Red Carpet Canceled: Who Really Pays the Price in Hollywood’s Crisis?

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In late 1941, during her two-month stint as the first female president of the Academy of Motion Pictures Arts and Sciences, Bette Davis advocated for a transformation of the Oscars ceremony due to the tragedy at Pearl Harbor. She believed it would be inappropriate to celebrate extravagantly while the country was going to war, comparing it to playing music as Rome burned. Proposing several changes, she suggested that the Academy Awards become a ticketed event with the revenue donated to the Red Cross. However, her proposal was rejected and she resigned in anger. Nonetheless, her successors adopted her ideas and organized a subdued, solemn ceremony, encouraging attendees to dress modestly except for military uniforms. A newspaper headline declared the changes: “Academy Dinner Will Still Occur, but No More Finery, Dancing, or Glitz.

Amidst the ongoing wildfires ravaging Los Angeles County, there’s renewed discussion about reconsidering or even cancelling glitzy award ceremonies, as celebrities like Jean Smart and Stephen King have proposed. Given the severe destruction caused by the recent fires that took at least 28 lives, displaced around 150,000 residents, and destroyed over 16,000 structures across 60 square miles, some stars question whether the traditional red carpet displays might appear tone-deaf. With January’s fires as a grim reminder, it’s not surprising that people are questioning how or if they should dress for these events. Some award shows have been rescheduled (the Critics Choice Awards twice) and numerous film premieres cancelled.

However, proposals to eliminate the traditional red carpet events are causing concern among a multitude of freelance workers who prepare stars for numerous award season events over the three-month period. They contend that if the aim is to support the industry’s most vulnerable, eliminating their primary income source for the year might not be the best approach.

Kerrie Urban, a groomer who works with celebrities such as Brett Goldstein, Charlie Hunnam, and Kevin Kline, expressed her concerns to The Hollywood Reporter. She had already gone through the hardships of the [2024 WGA and SAG-AFTRA strikes], missing six months of filming. Now, with this additional challenge, she feels it’s too much for working-class individuals like herself who have families to support and bills to pay.

Makeup artist Vincent Oquendo, known for working with actresses like Jenna Ortega from “Wednesday” and Karla Sofía Gascón, a best actress nominee, points out that freelance glam squad members supporting Hollywood stars also face economic struggles during crises. “When COVID-19 hit, we adapted,” he notes. “Last year, there were strikes which affected me financially as it was a time of confusion about what was and wasn’t permitted. This has resulted in some friends who work with me losing their homes. It’s important not to add to their hardships.

It’s important to note that casual commentators who enjoy watching award shows and swiftly share their opinions online often fail to realize the numerous creative minds behind a star’s red carpet appearance. According to Oquendo, as many as 16 professionals might be involved, including stylists, hair and makeup artists, manicurists, seamstresses or tailors, publicists, security guards when jewelry loans are concerned – and this is just the beginning. “Moreover,” he says, “most of us are freelancers. This is typically the scene on the day of major awards events such as the Golden Globes or SAGs.

Star stylist Jessica Paster, whose clients include Quinta Brunson, doesn’t anticipate a decrease in glamorous looks. “All of us stylists are having similar conversations, and so far everyone is maintaining the same looks as before the fires,” she notes. There were rumors about the Critics Choice Awards becoming a casual event, but no matter what dress you wear, it won’t alter your feelings. I believe these events can serve as fundraisers and demonstrate solidarity with the Hollywood community. For the past two weeks, Paster has been among the industry professionals volunteering at clothing donation drives, helping displaced individuals build new wardrobes.

Working with esteemed clients such as Nava Mau from Baby Reindeer and Oscar-nominated actor Yura Borisov of Anora, styling pair Amanda Lim and Luca Kingston have not encountered any demands to alter their prearranged styles. As Lim puts it, “The individuals we collaborate with generally appreciate sleek, black ensembles with a hint of edginess.” She goes on to say, “There’s no sense that anyone might stand out in an unusual way.

Lim and Kingston wouldn’t be labeled as insensitive towards fire victims. In fact, they had to evacuate their home due to the fire, taking along not only their personal items but also their two dogs, a cat, and a 75-pound tortoise named Lumpy, as well as numerous samples collected for awards season. They moved into Kingston’s mother’s house in Burbank. “We were forced to relocate,” Kingston says, “and this experience has changed our perspective on everything. We understand the importance of being considerate towards those who have suffered losses. However, it’s crucial to remember that this city is filled with gig workers, and they depend on their livelihoods. Shutting down entirely would be detrimental; instead, we need this season, particularly for making a significant portion of our income throughout the year.

As a devotee of Tailor Here, I wholeheartedly concur with Raha Dixon, the company’s CEO. “During award season, it’s not just two or three events a week, but rather 30 in a single week,” Dixon explains. “This makes up a significant portion of our business.” Founded by Dixon and her mother, Nanaz Hatami, a self-taught seamstress with nearly half a century of experience serving private clients, stylists, and high-end fashion houses, Tailor Here truly thrives during these bustling times. “On big award show weekends, we may have as many as eight assistants helping Nanaz,” Dixon continues. “They’re shortening a man’s jacket or adding intricate beading to a gown for an actress who just had a baby, for instance. Most of our workers during these periods are contractors. The work not only helps us survive the summer lull when everything seems to slow down, but it also provides a vital energy and lifeline. When that energy and lifeline are abruptly cut off, it’s truly terrifying.

Businesses within the community that participate in awards ceremonies often find themselves torn about the suitability of celebrating during award season amidst crises. As Peri Ellen Berne, head of strategic partnerships for Martin Katz Jewelers in Beverly Hills, explains, “In challenging times like these, whether to proceed with an event or not is a heavy concern within our industry. On one hand, it’s crucial to consider those affected by the recent wildfires in various Los Angeles communities. Simultaneously, we must recognize the importance of maintaining employment for our creative workforce to sustain the local economy.

Lim points out that when events have been delayed or called off, such as the BAFTA Tea Party on January 11th and the Oscar Nominees Luncheon on February 10th, disagreements can arise between a stylist’s agent and the party who arranged the job. As Lim explains, “We’ve put in the work: days of preparation, collecting and shipping items, organizing outfits, setting up fittings. When the event is canceled, we should still be compensated for that time and effort.” Lim also mentions that this issue of unpaid cancellations is a widespread problem within the industry.

Despite uncertainties surrounding awards season events, the freelance workers who meticulously style Hollywood celebrities are fearful they might be overlooked amidst heartfelt discussions. “You can’t compel healing; it’s not something you can rush,” Dixon points out. “It’s challenging and disheartening, but we’ve weathered strikes before, and we’ll manage this situation as well.

You can find this story in the January 29th edition of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. If you’d like to receive future issues, consider subscribing by clicking here.

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2025-02-01 20:55