Saint Laurent‘s menswear demonstrates exceptional elegance and class. The iconic French fashion brand, under the guidance of creative director Anthony Vaccarello, closed Paris Fashion Week Men’s on Wednesday (a few days later than the usual schedule), at the Bourse de Commerce. Here, minimalist walls met with aged parquet floors, hinting at the theme of contrasting elements that would define the Fall 2025 collection: an intriguing juxtaposition.
On the runway, Vaccarello showcased a unique blend in his muse’s personas: “an adventurous aesthete craving novel experiences and a consistent literary genius.” The designer drew inspiration from two primary sources for his moodboard: the timeless wardrobe presented by Yves Saint Laurent in his Haute Couture and Rive Gauche collections, and the imaginative spirit of Robert Mapplethorpe, whose monochrome portraits frequently celebrated beauty within stark contrasts.
The silhouettes were characterized by an ominous, alluring sophistication that was partly derived from Mapplethorpe’s contentious artistic reputation and partly stemmed from archival investigations. Vaccarello’s multi-era manifesto inspired a timeless collection of chic tailoring, commanding leather formalwear, concealed sunglasses, and durable knee-high boots – all presented at an almost cinematic level of precision.
It wasn’t an oversight that Vaccarello, who is well-known for his love of filmmakers like Rainer Fassbinder, Paolo Sorrentino, and Jacques Audiard, is now on the path to the Academy Awards. This is because Saint Laurent, a production company he co-produced, was part of Audiard’s Emilia Pérez – a film that received an unprecedented 13 nominations. The year 2025’s highlights for Vaccarello look promising with such a strong start to his reel.
See Saint Laurent’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above.
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2025-01-30 21:26