At the conclusion of Pitti Uomo 107 on Thursday night, Japanese fashion designer Satoshi Kuwata unveiled his runway premiere within Florence’s National Library. A refined string performance established a scholarly atmosphere for the brand’s Fall 2025 collection manifesto.
Just as every season brings inspiration, Kuwata’s latest designs were influenced by origami and blended Eastern and Western fashion elements, a unique mix that is key to Setchu‘s style. However, for this collection, the designer found his starting point not just anywhere, but in a library – Italy’s largest one. He began with a simple square. As he described, “Folding it first vertically then horizontally creates four smaller squares of various tones, separated by three mountain-like folds and one valley fold.” Each attendee was given a square paper piece folded in the same sequence at their place setting.
In the latest collection, Kuwata’s designs transformed into Saharan garments such as jackets and coats that could be adjusted to fit the wearer, along with button-up shirts and blazers featuring expandable square side panels for a more dramatic look. This season, gray and black tartan was prominently used, appearing on formal overcoats, modest gowns, and robes. A vibrant silk jacquard, reminiscent of traditional Kyoto patterns, added a touch of Kuwata’s upbringing to the line. Additionally, three jackets were collaboratively designed with Davies & Sons (the oldest tailor from Savile Row), while black lace eveningwear was inspired by octopus characters from adult manga.
Kuwata described it as a blend of playful features and careful consideration of time, resulting in a creative simplification – his vision.
See Setchu’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above.
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2025-01-17 21:25