The Elena Velez Shadow Woman Sheds Her Scales for FW25

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The woman known as Elena Velez is complex, sensual yet admirable, rebellious yet divine – or, as Velez herself describes in her notes, “both Eve and the Serpent, both the sailor and the siren.” This multi-faceted matriarch is a folkloric female icon that designer Velez has been refining since her debut collection in 2018, and even more so since launching her “YR” series of collections in 2021. At “YR:006” for Fall/Winter 2025, Velez’s latest range titled “LEECH” further develops her storytelling and delves deeper into allegory and American ideals, continuing to investigate the dualities of her shadow woman muse.

Velez brought together more than a hundred people at ARTECHOUSE in Chelsea, removing all decorations, dimming the lights, and transforming the space into a mystical “underwater canyon.” The walls were adorned with screens showing rocky seascapes, while stone sculptures were strategically placed to give the impression of a shipwrecked venue.

The show indicates that we’re now in an era of antiheroes. As our traditional stories and ideals seem less relevant than ever, we’re drawn to complex characters who embody both virtue and vice. These figures blur the lines between good and evil, providing a fresh take on greatness and possibility. With moral ambiguity at the heart of the presentation, models sported unique smoky makeup and striking hairstyles. Notable attendees included Anna Delvey, Dorian Electra, Leah McSweeney, and Rico Nasty, who opened and closed the show while wearing ankle bracelets.

Instead of walking like traditional models on the runway, they moved in unique ways – crawling, slithering, and stomping along a winding path that snaked among the audience seating. The third model, clad in a cream-toned corset top and textured black pants tucked into black boots, engaged with spectators by interacting with seated guests, keeping intense eye contact as she approached some of the benches.

In this show, the designer presented 30 unique outfits inspired by a mysterious figure who embodies both allure and rebellion. The runway was divided into three distinct personas representing shadowy women: “The Captain’s Daughter,” “The Land Walker,” or “The Leech.” Interestingly, Velez herself is one of the models for “The Captain’s Daughter,” as her mother holds the title of a ship captain. By challenging traditional norms and expectations, Velez incorporates materials like ropes, netting, and metal into her designs.

The show’s description portrays the EV shadow woman as a priestess who embodies ancient wisdom yet remains as mysterious and profoundly deep as the ocean depths. Additionally, she is characterized as a being who has seamlessly merged with her shadow self, gradually discarding the constraints of her predefined identity.

Instead of just her bold, eye-catching designs featuring ruffled dresses, distressed tops, and seaweed-inspired outfits, Velez also offers a more commercial line with pieces that her PR team refers to as “more accessible.” This line includes work jackets, double-zip leather items, trenchcoats, trousers, and even updated basics like simple blazers, leather goods, and sleek trench coats – all infused with Velez’s unique design perspective.

Examine the Fall/Winter 2025 collection of Elena Velez, titled “LEECH”, as depicted in the pictures above, and delve into the scenes backstage, captured by photographer Sarah Schecker, below.

 

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2025-02-11 03:26