Recently, Los Angeles has been experiencing its phase of modern tapas bars, followed by the trend of upscale gastropubs. Now, it seems that the city’s current era of innovative izakayas might be nearing its zenith. These contemporary interpretations of traditional Japanese drinking taverns continue to offer small, communal dishes, but with a striking level of unconventionality.
A few years back, I found myself drawn to the vibrant scene at Echo Park’s Tsubaki, located at 1356 Allison Ave. It’s no secret that this place has become a bustling hotspot, not just for its mouthwatering yakitori and yaki-onigiri, but also for its unique Angeleno dishes such as a Caesar salad with a twist – it comes with crispy panko breadcrumbs and a creamy miso parmesan dressing. And let me tell you, the “latkes” here are something else! They’re topped with succulent dry-aged Ora King salmon, pickled vegetables, and a zesty yuzu scallion crème fraîche. It’s a gaming day well spent, if you ask me!
Starting this fall, Dan Rabilwongse, a chef previously at Tsubaki, has been managing Budonoki (located at 654 Virgil Ave.). This eatery exudes high energy and its neo-noir decor is reminiscent of a Nicolas Winding Refn film set. The menu ranges from a Japanese sweet potato charred and served with miso butter to a dish featuring gnocchi dotted with Shimeji mushrooms.
In Venice, the former Mediterranean eatery Gran Blanco located at 80 Windward Ave., has unexpectedly switched its focus to Japanese cuisine, now serving chicken katsu sandwiches and fries seasoned with furikake salt, similar to establishments in Shinjuku’s Golden Gai district. Meanwhile, chef Travis Lett, known for his restaurants Gjelina and Gjusta, has revitalized the closed MTN at 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., transforming it into RVR, a modern izakaya that obtains its fresh squid from Monterey and pork belly from San Diego County.
In the latest additions, you’ll find Hollywood’s imported restaurant Rokusho located at 6630 Sunset Blvd., a modern Brutalist establishment that has embraced its surroundings by using locally-sourced ingredients and presenting unique dishes such as uni tostadas and kombucha tempura dipped in truffle-honey glaze instead of soy sauce. The executive chef, Carlos Couts, who hails from Los Angeles, aims to steer clear of the izakaya label because he believes it limits both the cooking style and service expectations. Instead, he is reimagining and refining Japanese traditions to cater to Californian tastes.
In the latest edition of The Hollywood Reporter magazine, which I eagerly picked up on January 9th, an intriguing tale was shared. Why not consider a subscription to stay updated like me? Click here!
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2025-01-11 21:27