Thom Browne FW25 Wants You to Dream Big

On a Tuesday evening at The Shed in Hudson Yards, Thom Browne brought an end to New York Fashion Week with a captivating, dream-inspiring Fall 2025 runway show. Under a canopy of 2,000 origami birds, attendees like Queen Latifah, Adrien Brody, and Lucky Blue Smith chatted in traditional Thom Browne outfits (elegant, vibrant, and intricately layered suiting). Meanwhile, others observed a radiant white cage strategically positioned at the center of the runway. Within this miniature enclosure resided two caged love birds, yearning for freedom, as explained by the American designer in his show notes. The ensuing fashion extravaganza was a manifestation of their whimsical aspirations—a “symbol of hope,” according to Browne.

As the show began, two models draped in parka coats stepped forward and took their positions atop a central table, which they used to fold more paper flyers and watch as Browne’s playful group of performers gradually appeared from backstage. The designer referred to this scene as “an expression of what folds and unfolds.” In stark contrast, the 64 remaining models, whom Browne dubbed “otherworldly visitors,” showcased the whimsical flair that makes his shows so captivating.

The clothing they wore showcased traditional tweeds made in England, voluminous coats that gracefully touched the ground, compact argyle sweaters, jacket styles resembling barrel-chested flycatchers and high-class suits dyed in the label’s distinct red, white, and blue shades. A trompe-l’oeil dress, adorned with approximately 3,500 Swarovski crystals, mimicked Browne’s signature uniform suit, while more crystals were draped from a large bag modeled after Browne’s beloved dachshund, Hector.

As a devoted admirer, let me share my thoughts: The designer’s suits were nothing short of artistic masterpieces. Some of them showcased intricate patterns like herringbone and houndstooth, adorned with exquisite details such as birds delicately stitched in satin and gold bullion embroidery. Meanwhile, windowpane checks shimmered with texture, thanks to vibrant strokes of acrylic paint running across their bodies. And the pièce de résistance? A breathtaking ball skirt, spanning an impressive 40 meters, made from traditional tweed and layered beneath a jacket embellished with gold-embroidered feathers – a grand tribute to Browne’s cherished symbol, the “rare bird.

One spectator murmured, “It feels like my fashion fantasy is coming true,” as Browne’s elaborate team strutted down the runway. Given the opening question in Browne’s show notes, “What a wonder if we could be exactly who we want to be?”, it seems that the audience’s thoughts were aligned with Browne’s plan. As always, his main objective was to astonish with some of America’s finest suits. And he certainly achieved that goal, as well.

 

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2025-02-12 19:56