As a seasoned fashion enthusiast with decades of experience under my belt, I must say that the Who Decides War SS25 collection shown at New York Fashion Week left me absolutely spellbound! With a career spanning from the glamorous runways of Paris to the bustling streets of Tokyo, I’ve seen it all – but this collection truly stands out.
On a Saturday afternoon, the landmarked former Emigrant Industrial Savings Bank, now known as Hall Des Lumieres, saw an achievement by Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore’s Who Decides War. The emerging New York City label, established in 2018 and recognized for its innovative denim, presented its remarkable tenth collection on Saturday. This collection, a fashion statement set for Spring/Summer 2025, was influenced by Victorian style enthusiasts and serves as a manifesto of sorts.
As I stood amidst the grand expanse of this venue, I was captivated by the unique blend of music echoing around me, a fusion crafted by Cash Cobain and talented students from Frank Sinatra School of the Arts. The walls, adorned with columnar projections, resonated with tunes from artists like Kanye West, Alicia Keys, Stephanie Mills, and Jamiroquai. This spectacle cleverly balanced experimental modernity with the comforting familiarity of classicism, creating an unforgettable atmosphere under one roof.
As a gamer, I’d say: “In this game, we’re delving into the essence of 19th-century designs, using time-honored fabrics that have evolved into American classics. From cotton and linen to terry, denim, leather, and lace, we’re transforming these materials, redefining their context, tearing, shredding, and mending them to create something magical. Our goal is to breathe new life into the elegant fashion aesthetics of Queen Victoria, but seen through the unique lens of Black Americana culture.
The designers labeled the exhibit as “lavish,” which truly encapsulates the extravagant expressions of the given textiles in their maximalist designs. In the male ensembles, cotton shirts were tailored with an hourglass silhouette to emphasize the waistline, while on feminine garments, the same fabric was pleated to give a misty illusion of dampness.
Originally designed as belts, these leather pieces were creatively transformed into elegant gowns. Denim fabrics were given a glossy makeover, torn apart strategically yet layered skillfully in the signature style of War’s classic designs. Translucent durag veils and sheer linen materials subtly showcased exposed skin beneath. Bomber jackets, produced in collaboration with Pelle Pelle, boasted intricate pattern work adorned with logos, while a forthcoming partnership with Jordan Brand was hinted at subtly on foot.
At the fashion show, Alton Mason made his entrance in a thick, creamy knitwear outfit. He then walked alongside Bravado and D’Amore for one last circuit on the runway. Afterward, the VIPs and media quickly headed backstage to get a closer look at the collection. Lola Brooks expressed interest in the belt dresses with harmonious designs, while Cleotrapa was drawn to the brand’s red gowns and wedding veils. The musician, speaking about Who Decides War, stated that they had never, ever, ever failed to impress.
Check out the Spring/Summer 2025 collection from War fashion brand displayed in the gallery above, and delve into the backstage moments captured by photographer Sarah Schecker below.
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2024-09-08 02:56